Thread: Isuzu Defender 130 dual cab conversion

hello andrew,

thanks for the info. the isuzu plant sounds tempting and the way you describe your ute puts a smile on my dial also! a local engineer told his inspection would include checking each and very nut and bolt if i was the do the body swap by myself. his fees would be between 150 and 350$. didn't reach qld transport yet, so don't know if they charge dearly for the paperwork.

i just drove a 1995 two door 130 with 200K on it. the most gutless one of the five different utes i've seen so far. if there's any life left in the turbo, it's hard to notice. could be many other things as well. looks like there's a leak on the fuel system, the intake side of the block was pretty wet. underneath the gearbox was covered in its own fluids, no drain plug in sight! according to the seller it may have been like that since last maintenance 10K ago?! can't believe the gear box would live that long without fluids, nor understand how could the plug take a walk by itself. running a dry transmission would make the truck sluggish, no? could it be a way to mask another problem? gears were engaging ok in both hi and lo and there were no metal on metal sounds that i could notice...

the body is also well beat up. foot wells rusted through on both sides, but intact up higher. driver's side door/b-pillar gap is 10 mm more than on passenger side, but no visible cause for this. didn't think about measuring the outrigger distances, that may have told if the frame is bent out of shape?

so, if only the price was right (owner's asking 7K) that could be a good base to start on the build. but when you mention the chance of landing a dual cab for 6K why bother with the cab swap! which auctions would you recommend? would they be statutory write offs only?

as far as your 4BD1T goes, what kind of mileage do you get out of it?

cheers,

pasi

Originally Posted by pasi

hello andrew,
so, if only the price was right (owner's asking 7K) that could be a good base to start on the build. but when you mention the chance of landing a dual cab for 6K why bother with the cab swap! which auctions would you recommend? would they be statutory write offs only?

as far as your 4BD1T goes, what kind of mileage do you get out of it?

cheers,

pasi

Just google car or auto auctions as there are a few and you can see what vehicles are coming up for auction. Pickles is one auction place. It may take some time to find a defender 130 but you will get one eventually. There are all types of auctions, some for written off and damaged vehicles, government vehicles, and lots for registered good vehicles.

My 4bd1+Ti gets about 11.5 L/100 and taking it easy have got 9.5L/100. I love the engine but be aware they are very different to any other common 4wd engine, so best to test drive one first. For example comparing to a nissan patrol TD42 turbo diesel, the Isuzu makes it feel like small 4cy petrol in regards to low down torque. The difference is amazing, I better add that my isuzu has a VNT turbo set up by rovercare on here, boosting up to 30psi though usually not getting over 25psi and is intercooled. The other big difference in the engines is that the isuzu runs out of revs quickly, it's a truck motor, is noisy, and I love it! Your welcome to test drive mine, bit far from you but can if you ever come to NE Vic.

Good Luck

Pasi, I might add; the post 1988 4BD1T are smoother, quieter, and more fuel efficient. Just something to keep in mind if you test drive an Isuzu landie.

hello andrew,

thanks for your offer for a test drive! i'll look you up if i ever make it down south.

i suppose the army didn't use any 130s, otherwise now would be the time to bet for one of those. they've had some wrecked 110s on graysonline that could be a source for the 4BD1(T?). unless the army landies are all non turbo?

your fuel economy is similar to that of a 300 tdi, no? the behaviour that you describe makes one smile. i mean, how cool is it to have a truck engine in a "passenger car"? should make one adopt a clever, anticipating driving style - like driving a truck. unless the funny torque/weight ratio turns the ute into a boy toy...

cheers,

pasi

hello john,

thanks for the hint. haven't gotten my hands on one so far. i also read plenty good about older isuzu tdi 2.8, but i quess it's more of a UK thing. there seems to be plenty on things that may make a 300 tdi sluggish. there also seems to be a school of thought that says they will need a major overhaul around 200k km, especially if neglected. saw prices for reconditioned engines somewhere, about 7000$. with that in mind you just cross your fingers to find a cheaper replacement somewhere.

cheers,

pasi

one more thing andrew, do you happen to remember the distance on the floor of a 130, between the front of the rear seat box and the middle bulkhead?

pasi

Originally Posted by pasi

there seems to be plenty on things that may make a 300 tdi sluggish. there also seems to be a school of thought that says they will need a major overhaul around 200k km, especially if neglected.

cheers,

pasi

Head gasket at 280-320,000km, most probably big ends around the same distance but mostly they just keep chugging along for 4-500,000km unless you're unlucky to get a late '98 version (crank failure due to faulty big end shells) or something really unlucky like too much core shift in a casting or a porous casting.

hello rick130,

thanks for the info. well, that seems to be the other school of thought! i suppose you never know what you get buying a used car. or a new one for that matter. i bought a brand new opel vectra in 1998 and that was a real electronics disaster on wheels. i don't think it helps much philosophizing about the engine though - you get what get and then do with it.

concerning the original thread, body swap; i'm thinking of something new, at least for me. would a shortened 110 wagon body fit on to a 130 chassis? without major dramas, that is. if you could add, say, 8 to 12 cm to the 130 cab length that would give luxurious room for the teenagers in the back. i have not figured out how the back seat set up differs on a wagon and a crew cab. at least the floor on a crew cab seems shorter than in a wagon. don't have any at hand so can't measure the 130, but if i remember right the wagon was about 45 cm. the floor space must have something to do with the outrigger placements i guess? anyone got insight into this?

cheers,

pasi