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Thread: Repair electric window faults in Discovery 1 ( ECU )

  1. #1
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    Repair electric window faults in Discovery 1 ( ECU )

    Fault: Electric windows (usually rear) in Discovery 1 do not work, whether using the console or door switches.

    Difficulty: Not very. I've successfully completed this repair myself so anyone can do it !

    Things to check first:

    A. There is a 'lockout' button on the console to stop children from winding the windows up and down. Ensure this is not pressed, jammed or sticky.

    B. Check the fuses. Open the fuse panel (drivers foot well underneath the steering wheel) using a coin or flat screwdriver. There are many fuses ! In the top RH corner there should be two x 30A fuses. There is one for the front windows and one for the rear. Fuses OK? Never mind, keep going !

    C REPAIR

    Tools: Torch, Hex head socket (7mm), soldering iron, flat blade screwdriver.
    Consumables: Solder.
    Caution: It is always good practice to disconnect the battery in a vehicle when doing electronic work, to avoid shorting.

    1. Remove the 4 x 7mm bolts at the bottom of the glove box.

    2. Open the glove box, lift the 'control arms' out of their slots and remove the glove box.

    3. Locate the window ECU case, beside the ABS module (if fitted). It's over toward the far left hand side.

    4. Have you disconnected the battery? Good.

    5. Remove the two plugs from the front of the control unit.

    6. Carefully pry the edges of the case of the control unit away, so that you can slide the circuit board (the 'ECU' itself) toward you.

    7. Again carefully remove the circuit board. Typically Land Rover haven't angled it to slide out easily, some jiggling might be required. Printed circuit boards CAN break so take your time.

    8. Once you have removed the circuit board, take a close look for dry joints. Keep reading even if none are evident.

    9. With a hot soldering iron re-wet the dry joints (that is, ensure there is a good soldered connection). If no dry joints are evident it may pay to re-wet as many of the joints as you can. Care: Don't let solder run excessively and join parts of the board that should not be !

    10. Don't replace the board into the vehicle yet but do plug the cables to the board. Ensure that there is no contact between the circuits and any metal on the vehicle, ideally by wrapping the board in an insulating material.

    11. Re-connect battery.

    12. Ignition to ON and check the functioning of the windows, all 4 of them. If the Land Rover gods are smiling on you, the repair will have worked. If not, ensure that the plugs are pushed fully home in the ECU sockets. Check again. Good now?

    13. Now disconnect the battery again, and for the same reason noted earlier.

    14. Unplug the circuit board, refit it into its housing, and refit the plugs. Again, ensure the plugs are pushed fully home in the sockets.

    15. Re-connect the battery, Test again, and if all good, refit the glove box.

    16. Drink a congratulatory beer.

    What if this didn't work?
    - Drink 4 commiseration beers.
    - Post a thread on aulro.com and ask for help.

    The following video (not mine, found on YouTube) is an excellent instructional video (though be gentler with the plugs than he says) and is a MUST WATCH before doing the job. It really will make the above seem less difficult than it may sound.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kt6odNB3c8s]Land Rover ECU Repair - YouTube[/ame]

    Good luck !




    If there are any problems, errors, corrections or additions required please use the 'report post / report to moderator' button, explain what's needed and myself or another mod can fix it. Thanks. (Alternatively you can PM me, VladTepes, for more detailed comment).
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  2. #2
    sparky Guest

    Great advice

    Great advice, finally got the time to sort mine out - what a PITA it is! My advice is that elsewhere someone suggests when you finally get the white lower multi-plug out to rip off the locking tab and throw it away - good advice, it probably took 1/2 an hour to get that one off alone! In the process of doing the job I have discovered a load of rust behind the door at bottom of the A pillar, major corrosion, and the same on the B pillar too! There is a plastic plug at the bottom of the pillars, just where they meet the bottom plate, rip it out I reckon and clan out all the crap! Clearly moisture and dust get in there and it starts rusting from the inside out! Bugger!

  3. #3
    Dave fnq Guest
    I'm gonna have a crack at this on the weekend.

    thanks for the guide.

  4. #4
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    very useful post / tutorial. Just completed this and works amazingly well in a short time. thanks again

  5. #5
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    I had problems with the rear windows. I did all the above. Had to pull out console to replace shifter cable and so cleaned/checked all the switch's. Checked rear door switch's and the fuses. So removed the ecu and resoldered a few dry points including the main one that everyone has found. I obviously did something wrong because now one fuse keeps blowing. So my guess is i stuffed the ecu and need to get a new one?

  6. #6
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    Here's the vid.

    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
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  7. #7
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    Thanks Vlad,great thread.

    the rear windows on my current late discovery dont usually work. I pressed the left rear button by mistake earlier and it came down but wouldnt go back up and its raining.

    looking at the wiring diagram the window ecu only turns on and off the live feed to the rear window switches, this is the white/pink wire. checking it with a volt meter there was about 9 volts at the switch which went down to zero when I pressed it, so a lot of resistance somewhere in the feed and not enought current to operate the window motor

    So I just hotwired a live feed from the cigarette lighter socket to one of the white/pink wire spades in the switch connector and I could close the window and keep the rain out.

    Its a bit of a bodge but a simple failed ecu rear window fix might be to disconnect the white/pink wire from the ecu and connect it direct to the appropriate 30a fuse in the fuse box

    1952

  8. #8
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    Very useful info

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