Thread: Razorback Restoration's 67/68 88" Rebirth

Really a mixture of both, and whatever a previous owner has decided to use on the day, cheers Dennis

Originally Posted by Old Man Emu

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This will be the first of many questions, and might seem stupid, but

Are the nuts and bolts on a Series ll body and chassis Whitworth or SAE?

Old Man Emu

Series 1 was all Whitworth/BSF/BA. (with a few strange ones, including BSP)

Series 2 started using UNF, and by Series 2A most (numerically) fasteners will be UNF, except for small fasteners, which remain BA, although coarse threads are probably BSW rather than UNC. But some fasteners remained BSF right up to the end of Series production - one place that comes to mind is the drive flange bolts on the hubs. Metric threads only started to be used late in S3 production, except, for example, the wheel studs, which became metric right at the end of S2a production.

Also, bear in mind that many parts are interchangeable across all Series Landrovers, and all bolt and nut sets may have been replaced by anything over the last fifty years.

Working on Landrovers you will eventually get to where you can recognise the different systems at sight, but meanwhile, bear in mind that you may need Whitworth, AF, or metric spanners for any job.

Thanks for that information. I'll use aircraft grade UNF whenever I replace a fastener.

Old Man Emu

Always a question of originality in these things - how close to factory do you want it to be?

In the Series 2/2a, most of the body fasteners were sherardised, which is probably almost impossible to find today - the best you could do is galvanised, but these will be virtually impossible to find in UNF, and replacing them with metric is a difficult decision. For most if not all body bolts, corrosion resistance is more important than strength, although you need to be aware that replacing them with stainless is not generally a good idea where they may be in contact with alloy panels. Zinc or cadmium plating is better than unplated, but that is about all you can say for it!

And you need to keep in mind that some places where the fastener is tapped into part of a structure, such as the top screws holding the dashboard (BA) it is not simply a matter of fitting your preferred thread fastener such as UNF.

John

The strip-down has begun. Apart from the bonnet and the canopy, which were the first things to come off, we got the seat assembly out last weekend. Luckily, most of the fasteners came loose after a squirt of WD-40. The only difficult ones were the seat belt bolts, but after lots and noise and sparks they were ground off and knocked out.

I've been cleaning up the seat supports by employing electrolysis. Luckily I had a power supply from a computer to provide the necessary 12V for this process. I got things back to shiny metal before applying etch primer. The big No No is to try to clean aluminium parts with electrolysis! Spray-on paint stripper and some aluminium scourer does the trick on the aluminium.

Now comes the question:
The original paint is a deep green. Would this be "Lincoln Green"? Any idea where I can get the recipe for this paint so I can get a few litres made up?

Old Man Emu

Originally Posted by Old Man Emu

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Now comes the question:
The original paint is a deep green. Would this be "Lincoln Green"? Any idea where I can get the recipe for this paint so I can get a few litres made up?

Old Man Emu

I think it is called Deep Bronze Green, and I am pretty certain details have appeared somewhere in the Series 2/2a section of this forum.

John

This weekend's effort resulted in the rear body being removed from the chassis to expose the chassis.

There's good news and bad. We knew that the rear section was badly rusted out and was a write-off. The news is that we will have to cut it forward of the rear spring hanger as shown in the attached diagram. The bad news is that it will mean that we will lose the chassis number which is punched into the left rear spring hanger. I'll have to do some research with the motor registry to see how we can get around that annoyance.

The good news is that the rest of the chassis rear of the firewall is in good nick. The only work required here will be a good cleaning with the pressure washer; a little bit of grinding off surface rust, then a good squirt of paint.

We found a that a lot of the bolts were rusty, so I am going to sort out the sizes and buy new nuts, bolts and washers. These will be aviation grade and CAD plated. I figure I can also reduce the vehicle's weight by a kilo or two by using bolts that are a tad shorter.

I had a lot of success during the week using electrolysis to restore rusted seat supports. I finished them off with a coat of etch primer, and they look almost as good as bought ones.

Next task is to remove everything forward of the firewall and the axle assemblies so we can get the chassis into the welding shop.

Old Man Emu

Can you show your set up for the 12 volt supply. I use batteries as I blew up a couple of battery chargers. Annoying having to swap and charge all the time.