Thanks - will look into them
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I pulled the alternator out today - there are no markings on it other than 'BAF0812L17' which when Googled showed up nothing.
The problem with shredding belts is because the alternator pulley does not line up with the rest of the pulleys - it is about 5mm set back closer to the block.
I took the pulley off the alternator but pretty sure it is correct.
There is a sleeve in the rear top mount that is half in / half out of the mount so I pushed it back flush with the front edge of the mount and put a spacer in the front mounting point which set the alternator forward 4mm.
The other lower mounting point seems to line up with the spacer in - it may have been a bit off before - I didn't check it.
Is this the wrong alternator or is there supposed to be spacers to align it?
I'd like it to be another mm or so over as it is still 'just' aligned with the other pulleys but it is working although I'm calling this a temporary fix until I work out why or how.
The photo shows (as well as my thumb) the alternator top mount with the sleeve pocking out the back and the 2 spacer washers on the front mount.
Dave
That photo also shows a knackered hose :D
Hi Dave
What year is your Defender and has it the original engine in it, we can then work out which is the correct alternator / pulley combination ?
I have found that 4 mm difference that chewed the belts!
This was found out when I tried a spare 65 amp off a early Defender ( 1994 ) 300 TDi engine onto a 1997 300 TDi engine in a Discovery, that mismatch has now been corrected and the correct 100 amp alternator fitted since.
The difference is in the distance of where the pulley sits to the inside mounting face of the front lug on the alternator casing, the timing case case mounting points are in the same position on both the early and later 300 TDi's.
The larger diameter pulley that is normally fitted to the early 65 amp alternator lines up with the standard 300 TDi arrangement, its when the smaller diameter pulley for the later engines is fitted to that alternator, this distance becomes a problem.
Also with the smaller diameter pulley, it needs a shorter serpentine belt to match it.
.
Thanks for your input - it's starting to make sense.
The Defender is a 1997 and has the small pulley, which I think is correct for this model.
I don't know if it is the original alternator - I think a 65amp is standard?
Googling 300dti alternators shows a lot of different casing designs.
Dave
While waiting for some mechanical parts to arrive I decided to fix the broken radio antenna today.
One thing led to another and... well the photo sort of explains where I'm at now - I sort of got carried away.
Dash was cracked, binnacle broken, dash lights were intermittent, the heater slides didn't work and it rattled.
I have full confidence it will all go back in there and work...!
http://www.nuggetoutdoors.com.au/images/130/dash 3.jpg
Looks similar to mine. I didnt strip it back that far though
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ml#post2221851
I bought a new Binnacle mount from APT Fabrications. It arrived pretty quick and was a perfect fit. Its amazing now how much stronger the dash feels. When sliding the heater vent up it doesn't flex or feel like it will break off at all anymore.
When I bought the ute it came with an uninstalled metal binnacle and a much better condition gauge pod - that's going in as well.
While I've got it in pieces I'm also fixing the heater slide.
I removed it today and to get a better look at it I drilled out the two rivets holding the slide in place.
I cleaned and re tentioned the contacts, the main slide contact is a drop in brass shaft (you can see the hole where it drops in to in the photo - in line with the shaft) - be careful if you go this far into it as it will drop out - I was lucky I found it on the shed floor!
Came up like a new one - will install it tomorrow.
PS - also picked up a 100 amp alternator for $100 off Fleabay - will look at measurements and alignment on it in the next few days as well.
http://www.nuggetoutdoors.com.au/images/130/dash 4.jpg
good to see you have appreciated some of the aged defender design features. while your at it,
put sewing machine oil down the actuator cables for the heater. stops siezing and corrosion.
check the drain on the heater inlet box. it's probably full of crap. give the fan a flick while your at it to ensure it isn't siezed.
self draining doors are a design feature. water in water out.
soak the fuses in some sort of corrosion preventer. check any electrical faults in this area with electrical contact cleaner
use a straight edge across the pulleys on the alternator. Repco do funny size belts if there is a length mismatch due to pulley size. mine has an aftermarket alternator. next time it gets a ford/bosch alternator.