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Hi every one,
i noticed some of the nuts were missing off the seat base so i decided to fit nutserts.
all up about an hour and half to drill and fit nutserts and then a trial fit up of the panels before i stripped it off for painting.
feel free to ask any questions
hope it helps![]()
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I'm always amazed at how flimsy the seat box is... even for my 2012 make. Do any modifications like this require an engineers approval, or is it a stronger than factory solution, or is your vehicle made before any applicable ADR's?
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Don't think it would need approval as I have only replaced nuts and bolts with a nursert and bolt😄
This is off a 1960 series 2
That isnt' for the seat mounts is it![]()
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They'll just pull through. You need a bolt with a washer to spread the load to stop the bolts pulling through the sheet metal!!
If you want captive, I'd get a length of solid metal strapping, drill the seat mounting holes through it ( using vicegrips or similar to hold the strapping in position inside the box section). Then tack weld some nice big captive nuts to the strapping........ Then using your nutserts to hold hold the strapping in position. That way you would need to tear the entire box section out for the seat mounts to fail.
I'd love a nutsert tool .... Where did you get that one from
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
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