Thread: LandyAndy's Disco II Sliders

Hi folks, this link will take you to the Gallery Pics.

http://www.aulro.com/modules.php'set_album...=view_album.php

Cheers

Hello LandyAndy, great work!
Certainly make the sidesteps much stronger
and still give you a platform to stand on.

Just one thing, the side steps look like the
ones from ARB rather than the Factory fitted
one. (They are identical to mine right down to the colour)

Tim W

The original pictures are missing form the initial article, and I've tried following the link to see the pictures in this article, but no go. It asks for a password if I try Our4Wd.com (or whatever the link is).

Are the pictures stored in the new site somewhere, and if so, how do I get to them?

Thanks
David

Same goes, i can't open the piccies and when i try to go to the link it sends me to the page 'the website has moved to www.aulro.com etc from the old website'. So when i go to the above link it sends me into the home page. Its a nice circle but i still can't find the piccies.....

The pics were stored on the old server, and have not moved to the new server as yet. However I did publish the same article in the newsletter, so if you have a look in the downloads section you should be able to get a copy with pictures

Thanks - I'll go and look there.

it's edition 13

Originally Posted by incisor

LandyAndy's DIY SLIDERS TO SUIT DISCO2

Hi guys
Here is a step by step guide to the Sliders I made for my Disco2.They should work for Disco1/Classic Rangie, however you will need to modify your standard sidesteps as they sit closer to the sill.

The Aim:
I wanted to replace the plastic sills to provide good protection but retain the factory sidesteps but be able to jack the vehicle from the sidestep.This is the “before” picture



Materials:
75mm x 50mm x 2mm GALV Box section
50mm x 5mm Flatbar
65mm x 50mm x 7mm angle
10 x high tensile grade8 bolts and nylock nuts 1/2inch x 4 inch
2 x high tensile grade8 bolts and nylock nuts 3/8 inch x 1 inch.
Galmet cold galv primer and pait of your choice.

Getting Started:
First task is to remove the plastic trim and factory sidestep(if fitted) from one side only,leave the other side as is so you can check your measurements as both sides are the same.I then got a length of 75x50 cut to aprox the length of the slider,I held it in place with a trolley jack.It needs to be held tight against the 2 door pillars where they meet the sill.I then marked on it where the fixing plates needed to be welded and marked the angle of the front of the slider to match the gaurd.I then cut the box tube and made an exact copy.





Next the fixing plates are cut from 50mmx5mm flatbar,you need 2 separate sections on each slider due to the side door pillars.Once the 4 pieces are cut carefully work out where the bolt holes go,the rearmost hole on each side line up with the rear chassis outrigger and you need enough room to get the nylock on,tricky but can be done.I put 5 bolts down each side,the sill is strongest around the door pillars and chassis outriggers.Once marked tack weld the fixing plates together in pairs so when you drill the plates match.A smaller piece of 50x5 mm flatbar is needed to be welded to the inside edge of the slider so you can bolt up into the bottom front of the sill with a 3/8 bolt.Also cut some 50mm x 5mm flatbar for reinforcing the bolts on the inner sill,they can run the full length of the inner sill,when measuring do so from the inside sill as they dont fit where the outriggers are and there is also a sensor on the drivers side for ACE that you will need to allow for.Drill the holes in the inner reinforcing bars later when you can mark them from the welded sliders,use a larger5/8 drillbit on them.Tackweld the fixing plates to the sliders,I allowed 15mm overlap of the plate to the box section also plate the ends of the sliders.Once everything is OK fully weld the plates.









Next task was to refit the original sidestep to enable the reinforcement and welding to the slider. Once the sidestep was fitted(the Disco2 items actually bolt to the outriggers, Im told the Disco1 items clamp on) I cut 4 pieces of heavy angle(65mmx50mmx7mm) with a 45deg cut on the outside edge. I then tack welded the angle pieces to the slider and to the sidesteps, tack in plenty of spots so it doesnt move when you remove to weld it up finally.Once your happy remove and fully weld the reinforcements.





Once al welding was finished I cleaned up the job with a sanding disc on a grinder then painted with GALMET Cold galv spray and then black paint



The slider/sidestep assemble was then refitted,I had to elongate the holes in the sidesteps to refit the chequerplate treads due to welding heat slightly bowing the sliders.





Whilst I had the welder going and was in the mood for playing with steel, I made a rear towbar recovery fitting, I got a piece of ½ inch plate, cut a shape that fits into 50x50mm boxtube. I copied the shape,cut it out welded the 2 together, fitted then inside the box tube welded with “pool welds” then drilled a hole for fitting a shackle and also a hole to match the towbar reciever.



I have tested the sliders with a jack in the workshop, jacking from the reinforced points,the doors still open properlr and the clearances in the doors didnt change so the sidesteps are plenty strong enough.

Improvements:

One problem I had was when tightening one of the bolts midway between the front and rear door pillars I over tightened the bolt slightly pulling the inner sill in. On this midway fixing it would be worth drilling out the hole in the sill larger and using a piece of round tube to act as a spacer.

The sliders are airtight so can be used later as air tanks for an onboard compressor,if you intend doing this,it would be best to put the fittings in and pressure test during construction.

Please feel free to ask if the instructions need clarification.
ALL THE BEST
Andrew[/b]

Hi Andy
is there anyway you could get the pic back up on this post

cheers