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Thread: Volt Gauge connection

  1. #1
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    Volt Gauge connection

    Years ago i installed gauges in my D2 and whilst knowing full well at the time that it wasn't the ideal thing to do I took the convenient option and tapped a power feed for the volt meter from the fuse box. This weekend I plan to correct that and take a feed direct from the cranking battery

    I've planned to install a relay to switch the Voltmeter feed via the ignition keylock but now I wonder if it is even necessary to go to that trouble. If I understand correctly an analogue Voltmeter doesn't actually consume power and thought that it wouldn't hurt to have a constant feed. I do routinely refer to the gauge and am thinking it would more practicable if the gauge displayed battery condition all the time.

    What do others think?
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  2. #2
    DiscoMick Guest
    Be good to be able to get a reading even when engine is stopped. The son has that on a panel linked to his second battery.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

  3. #3
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    I have a VDO voltmeter connected direct to the battery on my 1980 S3, It sits for weeks unused and I found that it does draw the voltage down. Not a lot, didn't flatten it, but I fitted a switch anyway. Not a hassle to flick it on and off when needed.
    Terry
    80 109" 2.6 P ex Army GS, saved from the scrappie.
    95 300tdi 130 Single cab tray.
    2010 Guzzi 750

  4. #4
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    Thanks DiscoMick,

    I agree and the job is now done - the VDO volt meter now displays the constant voltage reading for my cranking battery with ignition key out or in.

    BTW my multimeter gives my alternator peak charge / output as 14.53V
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  5. #5
    BigBlackDog Guest
    I took my volt feed from an ignition source, which granted isn't right, but I also took a constant feed to a momentary push button to check it when ignition is off.
    As a side note, Volts are only useful if there is a certain load on the system. A stuffed battery can still read 12.5 volts with no load on it bit not be able to provide any useful amps

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBlackDog View Post
    I took my volt feed from an ignition source, which granted isn't right, but I also took a constant feed to a momentary push button to check it when ignition is off.
    As a side note, Volts are only useful if there is a certain load on the system. A stuffed battery can still read 12.5 volts with no load on it bit not be able to provide any useful amps
    thanks for your contribution... nice idea with the momentary switch... and very true re volts vs load. In my case if on my D2 TD5 the central locking struggles on opening and afterwards seeing the batt volts at 11V or lower then I should expect problems cranking. However that situation doesn't happen suddenly - observant owners would notice and interpret the trend and (should) not get caught out.
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

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