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Thread: PROJECT 3A, New Driving light wiring up grade

  1. #11
    Shiner Guest
    Drivesafe Hi.

    Thanks for your reply. Really quick.

    I'm in the UK so I guess sending a loom would be impracticable from a cost point of view regarding shipping & etc. But thanks for the offer.

    Are any of the wiring diagrams suitable for the D3 as add-on?

    Regards

    Bill

  2. #12
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    Hi Drivesafe,
    Slightly off-topic, but can you tell me what B&S means (when used in connection with wiring )?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shiner View Post
    Drivesafe Hi.

    Thanks for your reply. Really quick.

    I'm in the UK so I guess sending a loom would be impracticable from a cost point of view regarding shipping & etc. But thanks for the offer.

    Are any of the wiring diagrams suitable for the D3 as add-on?

    Regards

    Bill
    Hi Shiner, if your not in a hurry I’ll have a look at aa ADD-ON driving light loom set on my wife’s D3.

    She is away, in the D3 at present but once the D3 is back, I’ll do some development work on a set for her D3 and let you know what I come up with.

    Not sure till I put a kit together but even with express air mail to the UK, I think I can produce a reasonably priced kit for you.

    But don’t hold your breath just yet.

    Cheers.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushwanderer View Post
    Hi Drivesafe,
    Slightly off-topic, but can you tell me what B&S means (when used in connection with wiring )?
    Hi Bushwanderer, B&S stands for Brown & Sharp and was the forerunner to AWG ( American Wire Gauge ) and B&S, AWG and G are all the same size, in other words, if you have a length of cable that is 6 Gauge, it is also 6 AWG and 6B&S, and all are around 13.5mm2.

    Note there is also another wire sizing marked as Battery and Starter cable but these can be different cable sizes so if your buy cable, try to get cable that is marked with B&S cable size.

    B&S is still fairly common and it is an accurate copper area sizing system. It may sound a little confusing but with B&S, AWG and G marked cable, you get what you paid for.

    I won’t go into the whole rigamarole about cables and sizing but one word of warning, DO NOT BUY CABLE BASED JUST ON THE CURRENT RATE MARKED ON THE CABLE.

    There are a number of clowns on the net selling cable only by it’s current rating, this is deceiving and is intended to make thinner and cheaper cable look like it is the cable you need.

    Quite the reverse is the case, cable sold as 100 amp cable actually has a continuous rating, at most, of only 50 to 60 amps and this still does not allow for any form of voltage drop if the cable is going to be used in long runs.

    If you need some more specific info, just post the question and I'll try to give you the info you are looking for.

    Cheers.

  5. #15
    Shiner Guest
    Okay Drivesafe

    Have a go at the theory and let me know if you come up with a solution. Probably best to use my email to get in touch. It's in my profile.

    Regards

    Bill Wright

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