Thread: Tutorial - Discovery Window Roller Repair by Waynep

Just as a follow-up I thought I would add my experience to the mix.

My vehicle is a '98 300Tdi Disco and the window mechanism is different to the images Waynep provided.

As you can see, my actuator has 3 arms rather than 1! Why? I guess different models have different setups, hence my post and pics.

[IMG][/IMG]

Therefore, before pulling the door down it may be worth determining whether you will require 1 or 3 replacement rollers (per front door).

In addition, I found the track the rollers run in was fairly solid and difficult to bend/flare/open, as described by waynep, to the required gap in order to get the standard Rolltrack rollers to fit. So, I modified the rollers to make them fit rather than modifying the track.

It took a considerable amount time and effort (and rollers) to decide on the best modification for the job.

This is what I came up with!

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

(Sorry about the photo quality, waynep's pic. of the new roller is much clearer. However, you should get the general idea of the before and after effect)

This is what I did.

First remove the nylon outer. I used a mini hacksaw and long nosed pliers.

The outer metal ball-race has a square edged profile. This needs to chamfered and rounded then 'thinned' to fit the tracks.

I used a bench grinder to 'thin' the rollers (mainly on the under/axle side) and a Dremel with the brown grinding tip to round the profile of the rollers.

Once you have mastered one the process is really quick.

My advice is to grab a of couple bevies, set up a comfortable work space with good light and take your time.

Does it work? Dunno yet, haven't refitted them, but I can't see why not.

The rollers slide up and down the unmodified track really well and, as Waynep has pointed out, they are steel ball bearings in a metal ball-race! Must be stronger than OEM nylon only jobbies and only $3.98 each at Bunnings.

Refitting this Saturday. Will update as need arises.

Thanks waynep and incisor for the original post! Saved me heaps of money!

Murray
from memory when he first put this up, the repair was for the rear window hence only the one roller, yours is the front doors.
I hope you have better luck, i tried using those rollers to repair mine( drivers side front) did everything pretty much the same the problem i found was the scissor mechanism does not have a lot of tolerance when you put it back in. by the time i ground down the bolt etc, it would not work without binding.
Discretion being easier i bought a new scissor section , the newer rollers are square and not rollers like the older ones.


john

Mmmmm...

I was a little worried about that sort of stuff which is why i have set aside Saturday!

I'll give it a whirl.

Out of interest, can you remember the details of the replacement scissor?

muzz
sorry about the delay was away for a few days and missed this one,
I guess your asking what part no's etc,
i bought mine( have replaced the passenger and drivers side, althought my prob was with the broken spot weld were for the life of me won;t stay together after you reweld them)
from one of the recommended suppliers, no probs they are a stock no.
Cost with postage about $135 ( will have to dig up the receipt) IMHO it is a far better prospect than trying to boggie it up.
I have tried both repairs, rewelding and the rollers trick, pull those bloody things apart 3 times and you realise its just not worth it you save nothing. plus the skin I lost each time. The last time it happened i was 1200km from home( the welds breaking after two rewelds)

In your photo of the replacement you have ground etc, compare it with the broken roller in wayneps , the heights are different, which will spread the scissors apart, then when you get it back together because it is wider it will bind on either the inside of the door or the other arm of the scisssor mechanism, but if it does work, you may be putting strain on the welds and they may pop.

They are my views, I've tried all of the repairs, ( I am talking about the front doors only, not the rears) and none of them are long term fixes. Compared to the complete replacement.


good luck


john

Sorry I don't have more or better pics but I only took a couple of snaps with the phone at the time as a quick reference for myself for the next time rather than as a full pictorial.

I used a metric bolt with a wide but quite flat philips head with two nuts, one threaded down to the panel washer and another to bolt the arm on. Then cut the excess bolt and peined to lock it. No plastic, never repair it again.
03-03-08_1508.jpg
03-03-08_1514.jpg

I already had the bolt, nuts & panel washer in my crate of odds'n'sods.


PS. I keep my odds'n'sods bundled in old sheets in crates. You lift it out, open the sheet up and spread it all out so you can pick thru it, then when you're done you just gather up the 4 corners of the sheet and pick them up and pop it back in your crates.
03-03-08_1549.jpg

Originally Posted by JohnE

They are my views, I've tried all of the repairs, ( I am talking about the front doors only, not the rears) and none of them are long term fixes. Compared to the complete replacement.

Hi John

Yup, you were right!

Put it all back together, hit the switch, window went up (about 2 inches) and... that was it!

Tried to roll it down, the whole mechanism flexed and binded to the spot! You could almost feel the amount of pressure the mechanism was putting on the welds. The whole inner door skin and assembly twisted under the load.

Anyway, my missus works 2 doors from the Toorak Tractor Co. in Braeside so I'll put her on the case for a full replacement I think.

Thanks for you input and suggestions.

Originally Posted by 100I

PS. I keep my odds'n'sods bundled in old sheets in crates. You lift it out, open the sheet up and spread it all out so you can pick thru it, then when you're done you just gather up the 4 corners of the sheet and pick them up and pop it back in your crates.
03-03-08_1549.jpg

Thanks Dan.

I will have a bit more of a fiddle when I have replaced the broken one with a new one.

Love the odds'n'sods storage solution. I have 5 or 6 biscuit tins full of stuff that could all go in your solution. Will give it a try.

[quote=discomuzz;759547]Hi John

Yup, you were right!

Put it all back together, hit the switch, window went up (about 2 inches) and... that was it!

Tried to roll it down, the whole mechanism flexed and binded to the spot! You could almost feel the amount of pressure the mechanism was putting on the welds. The whole inner door skin and assembly twisted under the load.

Anyway, my missus works 2 doors from the Toorak Tractor Co. in Braeside so I'll put her on the case for a full replacement I think.



mate sorry to hear it didn't work, but your expansion on my description,with the flexing of the inner door skin and binding is what happened to me, when i tried the roller replacement as was first suggested. But my welds broke again that time, and they had been migged, drilled ground and everything else i could do to make them strong.

the hard bit was getting the support piece out that is held in by one phillips head screw, thats when the inner panel of the door removed a large chunk of skin off the back of my hand.

Just a suggestion do a bit of ringing around for the price of the new lift, there are a lot of varied prices out there, one of mine came from one of the recommended suppliers who was a site advertiser. around that price i mentioned.


john