Thread: CDL Actuator Install for Disco II

i did the budget option.
1/4 drive socket welded onto a length of chrome steel shower screen curtain bar with a handle on the top. drilled a hole through the plastic and tunnel and dropped it down. took about 1/2 hour to do. works a treat. will take some pics and post up later today.

Originally Posted by Redback

This is from the Ashcrofts Engineering website

To finish off the job...

1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out

2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.

3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.

4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!

5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.

Please note :
This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.

To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged

Baz.

Originally Posted by aaron.miller

Hi Gooddog,
Taken from the ashcroft transmissions website

To finish off the job...

1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out

2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.

3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.

4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!

5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.

Please note :

This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.

To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged

Aaron

I think there is an echo in this thread

Read the posts people

I have a 2000 V8 auto, was looking at fitting the CDL actuator from a late D2 to engage my CDL. Now I take it I will be replacing the actual lever? Does anyone have a diagram or picture of the whole lot before fitting as I have found a place near me who reckon they can get one in for me tomorrow for $575 brand new, does this sound right? Not 100% convinced as the bloke on the other end didn't sound 100% sure, I did explain what I was after, just want to be sure when I rock up there tomorrow, and not buy the wrong parts. Excellent tutorial Baz, will hopefully be giving it a go and fitting it myself, cheers everyone.

Originally Posted by Rosscoe68

i did the budget option.
1/4 drive socket welded onto a length of chrome steel shower screen curtain bar with a handle on the top. drilled a hole through the plastic and tunnel and dropped it down. took about 1/2 hour to do. works a treat. will take some pics and post up later today.

Any progress on those pics mate......?

Cheers,

..:: KIEREN ::..
2000 Disco II Auto V8
AussieAubs Disco Page

Hi Rosscoe68 - have you been able to get the pics up yet for the CDL part?

Originally Posted by AussieAub

Any progress on those pics mate......?

Cheers,

..:: KIEREN ::..
2000 Disco II Auto V8
AussieAubs Disco Page

Originally Posted by colsdisco

I have a 2000 V8 auto, was looking at fitting the CDL actuator from a late D2 to engage my CDL. Now I take it I will be replacing the actual lever? Does anyone have a diagram or picture of the whole lot before fitting as I have found a place near me who reckon they can get one in for me tomorrow for $575 brand new, does this sound right? Not 100% convinced as the bloke on the other end didn't sound 100% sure, I did explain what I was after, just want to be sure when I rock up there tomorrow, and not buy the wrong parts. Excellent tutorial Baz, will hopefully be giving it a go and fitting it myself, cheers everyone.

Hi Col, here ya go



Baz.

Just want to be sure as I have had difficulty finding a disco II CDL actuator. Is the DI low range gear knob and actuator compatable with the Disco II.
Earlier posts suggest that I need to buy a new actuator (Cable) and then I could fit a D1 low range gear shift

Has anyone actually done this conversion and can positively confirm this is right?

Originally Posted by Ports

Just want to be sure as I have had difficulty finding a disco II CDL actuator. Is the DI low range gear knob and actuator compatable with the Disco II.
Earlier posts suggest that I need to buy a new actuator (Cable) and then I could fit a D1 low range gear shift

Has anyone actually done this conversion and can positively confirm this is right?

D1 is different and can't be used with the cable unless you modify it, also it will depend on what your D2 is auto or manual, the D1 lever won't fit in the transmission tunnel in one of them, sorry can't remember which one.

Baz.