Thread: EGR removal...

Thanks Dave
I used this thread to remove my EGR valve and it went really well. I left all of the electrics in place and just blanked of the two vac lines. We checked for faults with a Nanocom and no faults logged.

The vehicle actually goes a little better accellarates quicker and seems to hold top gear for a bit longer up hill. The valve was full of thick black sludge which surprised me for a low milage engine.

I also left the cooler in place if you ever manage to turn it into something useful hope you put up a post

Hey guys, was looking to finally finish removing my egr electrics today (pulled the valve a year ago) when i noticed that it was a little different to the manual. Firstly it says that the egr modulator had to be mounted vertically, now mine was definately mounted horizontally and also it said (being a pre eu3 model) that it would have an inline filter. This was also not the case as the atmosphere line ran back to the airbox. so i just pulled it all out and am now going back with the nanocom to see if i have any fault code issues. ( had some preexisting issues and was hoping this would fix it but not getting my hopes up)

Has anyone else noticed their egr systems being a cross between the two systems?? or did i just get a friday afternoon special??

regards

Originally Posted by adonuff

Thanks Dave
I used this thread to remove my EGR valve and it went really well. I left all of the electrics in place and just blanked of the two vac lines. We checked for faults with a Nanocom and no faults logged.

The vehicle actually goes a little better accellarates quicker and seems to hold top gear for a bit longer up hill. The valve was full of thick black sludge which surprised me for a low milage engine.

I also left the cooler in place if you ever manage to turn it into something useful hope you put up a post

I did exactly the same. Just made sure the EGR was closed before removing the vacuum lines and blocked them with some self tapping screws, later blocked the cooler at the entrance just to avoid being under continuous pressure.
I reckon the power gain is about one gear and it's now constant and starts earlier. My EGR was getting stuck and I was loosing power when I needed it.
I now use 4th gear uphill when I needed 3rd etc. It really made a big difference.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

ok this is easy, grab your exhaust blanking plate and give it a very light coat of sealstic

Attachment 4756


from the non sealasticed side place in one of the allen bolts that you removed from the manifold side (the steel ones) touch a dobble of sealsitc onto the threads so the sealastic holds the bolt. Now press the blanking plate into position with that bolt in the topmost position, Its light enough that the tack of the sealstic will hold the plate in place while you attach the socket to the bolt which shouldnt have fallen out due to the sealastic on that. Use the socket to move the bolt into alignment then start the top bolt, only do it up a few turns at this time. (If you have nimbler hands than mine this might be easier to do without the bolt in the top But I fund that with the bolt in place I could rest it up alongside my fingers as a guide)Put a touch of the sealastic on the allen socket so it holds the next bolt in and align it and the plate then screw them up I went to NRT which is one click of my index knuckle on the ratchet, In reality you want about 6-10nm.
Attachment 4757

and thats that done.

Hey!!!! Seen a few tools colour coded like that before.... might even have one or two myself... You spent any time at a certain base near the swich...I spent 7 years there.

theres a pretty good chance Im currently mid sentence and looking at parole.

I'm half way through egr removal and just wanted to ask a few Qs.

doing it on a 2000 td5 130 defender

is it normal to find so much black sticky crud inside the inlet manifold? mine seems to have heaps of the horrible stuff in there... have taken the inlet manifold off for cleaning. there is also some kind of sensor on the manifold this is caked in black crud. what is it? should i clean it? and is there a special cleaning agent i should use

thanks guys =D

yep, that black soot is part of the reason why we do the mod. stopping it promotes engine life, partly because it stops your engine ingesting grinding paste and partly because it keeps the MAP (manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor from fouling and having that working properly keeps the ECU correctly informed as to whats going on in the engine and therefore it sends the correct signals to the injectors for fueling.

you can clean them I typically use CRC contact cleaner or a residual free electrical cleaner. Dont be tempted to spray it straight onto the face that normally sits inside the manifold as the force of the cleaning fluid going into the port can damage the sensor thats inside.

have someone check your MAP readings pre and post cleaning, if the number goes wild then its cactus and will near replacing.

As Scott OZ and others have found the part number ANR6916 for the vacuum hose minus T join given by TD5Alive and others is incorrect.

Checking on Microcat it looks like the correct part for the Discovery TD5 is SQB000280.

ANR6916 is "Hose assembly brake vacuum, 5 cylinder diesel, RHD"
SQB000280 is "Hose assembly brake vacuum, less exhaust gas recirculation system, 5 cylinder diesel, RHD"