Thread: EGR removal...

First off clean the engine bay out and let it cool down.

you'll need the following tools

5mm 1/4inch drive allen key socket
8mm 1/4 inch drive socket
6 inch extention in 1/4 inch (mine doubles as a screw driver)
4 inch 1/4 inch extention
1/4 inch drive socket handle
flat head screw driver
phillips head screwdriver
Magnet on a stick (your more than likely going to drop one of the allen bolts)
torch (so you can find said bolt)
mirror on a stick (yep your going to use this to get it back)
gasket sealastic (optional but I used the blue stuff as it matched the colour of the silicon hoses, helps to locate the gaskets during assembly and a little on the threads works as a very light loctite)

about 1 hour in time

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this is the workhorse tools 99% of this work was done with these. the other tools are on the wing on the other side

Ok stage 1 remove the shroud from the top of the radiator, turn it upside down and place it behind the bull bar, it makes a good tool/parts tray. for the deefer its 4 philips head screws and comes off in about a minute then with the 5mm allenhead socket on the 4 inch extention and the ratchet remove the 2 bolts (allen head) that hold the pipe flange that joins onto the turbo side of the EGR cooler

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once youve gotten the 2 bolts out place them somewhere safe and dont drop them (they will wind up in the bottom half of the radiator shroud where you cant reach them by hand) in the process as they are aluminium and wont be picked up by the magnet. Now bend the pipe down off of the face of the cooler by about the length of the flange (as pictured above)
This lets you easily get the socket in to get the top bolt out of the exhaust manifold mounting flange. Mount the socket on both the extentions and you should just have room behind the radiator for the ratchet. once youve gotten this bolt out hang onto it your going to need this and its partner later.

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Then bend the pipe back up so the cooler flange is just above its normal position and using the same setup take out the bottom bolt, this is the one you will drop so be careful if you drop it you can easily see it by looking down behind the aircon pump and its a doddle to reach with a magnet on a stick. pull the pipe out and your done for this step

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ok this is easy, grab your exhaust blanking plate and give it a very light coat of sealstic

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from the non sealasticed side place in one of the allen bolts that you removed from the manifold side (the steel ones) touch a dobble of sealsitc onto the threads so the sealastic holds the bolt. Now press the blanking plate into position with that bolt in the topmost position, Its light enough that the tack of the sealstic will hold the plate in place while you attach the socket to the bolt which shouldnt have fallen out due to the sealastic on that. Use the socket to move the bolt into alignment then start the top bolt, only do it up a few turns at this time. (If you have nimbler hands than mine this might be easier to do without the bolt in the top But I fund that with the bolt in place I could rest it up alongside my fingers as a guide)Put a touch of the sealastic on the allen socket so it holds the next bolt in and align it and the plate then screw them up I went to NRT which is one click of my index knuckle on the ratchet, In reality you want about 6-10nm.
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and thats that done.

First up remove the 2 control lines to the EGR and the butterfly actuator and bend them back towards the back of the car, blank them up (the heads of 5mm blind rivets work well)
(see the second pic mine have flicked back up as I only tucked them away and hadnt blanked them at that point)

then using the 6 inch extention ratchet and allen key socket remove the bolts holding the cooler to EGR valve pipe flange I found working the ratchet from 6 oclock to about 9 gave the best action for both bolts coming in from under the intercooler-egr hose
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use the flat head to undo the hose clamp that mounts the intercooler to EGR hose and let it drop down towards the radiator DONT remove the hose yet. take the 8mm on the 4 inch extention and 8mm socket remove the top left and bottom right bolts (viewed from the front) that mount the EGR to th intake manifold, press the hose down and off then wedge it down to the right then remove the last 2 bolts top right then bottom left and the whole thing will spring up a little. Some tetrising and its out.
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you might want a mirror on a stick and a torch to get the bottom right bolt I got it by feel on the second go.

edit
The pics of the hose pushed into position for removing the last 2 bolts and the top bolt out did not work out
endedit.

Check the hose at this point for any signs of oil or crud coming out of the intercooler and the hose for damage /delamination/softening/cracking replace with silicon ones if needed.

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Saving the gasket from the EGR unit OR using a new one smear both sides with gasket sealastic and place it onto the bypass pipe

Attachment 4749

then insert the pipe onto the intercooler hose and using the 4 bolts from the EGR unit and a bit of sealstic on the thread (locktite 271 would be better here) bolt the pipe up onto the manifold 6-10 Nm again) then tighten the hose clamp up.
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thats it apart from final clean up and re-installing the top radiator shroud.

OK so your done clean put the shroud back on and put all the tools away you should have 1 pipe, 4 5mm allen head bolts and the EGR left over...

"But," I here you say "youve left the cooler in place you're on drugs youve only done half the job"

True I have... But then I plan on cutting the exhaust manifold to cooler pipe in half and then brazing that up onto standard pipe fittings, mounting a small tank in the passangers side wing and turning it in to a water heater. Plus on mine removing it requires closing off or connecting together the coolant pipes that run to it. (if you dont have the cooler omit the steps relating to it)

for simplicities sake If its not leaking leave it in place untill you have to change the coolant for some other reason the TD5 can be a pig to bleed and I'll update this thread If turning it into a water heater doesnt work.

AS to using gasket slealastic on the exhaust manifold blanking plate + bolts Its not manadotry but most locktites that you can undo with normal tools also break under heat. you could use the heat proof ones but once you do there is no way you can remove them later.

and YES I've left the acutators hooked up at this point as I dont have an OBDII reader to identify fault codes. I'll unplug and remove them when Ive got access to one so that I can prove for myself that doing so doesnt cause fault codes. Even if they do They shouldnt be critical ones that fire the check engine light.

Kudos to Dullbird for the silicone hoses and landyfever for the kit.

Great write up...

The ECU is NOT intelligent enough to know IF its working or not, only tells it to activate...

Disconnecting the unit will not affect the operation or generate a fault code.

I was expecting it to have a "the actuator unit is not connected" type fault indicator for when you melt the harness or similar....

but cool that'll get bumped into tomorrows lunch break or the weekend since it doesnt require a clean environment.