Your rear cab lower section will still crack the filler and paint as you have not welded or bonded the panels firm. This still allows some flex and filler does not like flex.
Cheap fix... Sixaflex that sets rock hard and rivers every 1 inch or so..
Or take it to get welded
I'm past the point of no return now. I did use countersunk s/steel screws but about 3" apart & was told to use Sikaflex but I think the stuff I used doesnt set solid, there are about 57 varieties of the stuff and the website is easy to understand- if you are a rocket scientist- . I used 252.
Yep in the black tube right? or is that 212It DOESN'T set rock solid, the problem you have is they;re built like crap
, and they flex
, better off forming the panels so they don't need filler, I mean look at the rest of it, pop rivets and dents from new
, saves on the bog cracks
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Perhaps a single hoop internal rollbar that ties into the pillar to make it rigid would stop the flex too, and add some rollover safety if you stuck a diagonal or two in there running back from about the seatbelt mounting point to the bottom corner below the new "pockets".
With plenty of LPG capacity, around 185 litres, I've decided to go dedicated LPG, nothing fancy, just getting rid of the carby and putting in an impco butterfly setup. It will get done professionally of course, once she's on the road.
I'll keep all the gear just in case I ever sell it.
Plate for roll bar, side rails & tank support etc,- I cut down a 10" girder.
Plate in place.
Tank fitted. Like a bum in a bucket
Now to get these suckers to fit, I cut the wagon floor supports off as I dont need them, which will help raise the tanks a bit.
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Getting Rear tanks in is a beast of a Job.....
Getting them out after they have been covered in mud and crap is worse...
It can be done- coz I just did it.
I'm off up bush tonight. Will post pics later tomorrow night.![]()
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