Thread: 1985 County "Upgrade"

Well I,ve done enough k's now to get an idea of what to expect.

4.5 klm per litre or not even 13 MPG Thats suburban driving without much thought to economical driving.

So LPG is definately getting hooked up. It runs just SO well on petrol, starts first pop, goes like stoomph , but at that rate its going to burn a big hole in the pocket.
This is my sums on the conversion.
Its going to cost $1500 after the gov't rebate, The twin tanks are ex the red county and I paid $750 for the 120 litre tank. So lets say $2250 out of pocket.
Petrol cost @ $1.56 per litre works out to 32.4 cents per klm
LPG @ 60 Cents per litre- allow 25% less efficient -is 17.7 cents per klm

SAVING 15.3 cents per klm.

$2250 divided by 15.3 equals 14,705 kilometres after which I'm ahead. Things may change, but even 20 or 25 thou is still worth it. I'll get about 600klm range @3.375 klm/litre.
Still, the smile on the dial is worth it.

Good onya Deejay for working out exactly how much it's costing you. I prefer not to look !. LPG will certainly be cheaper!

Hi,

My 74 RRC with 350 gets just under 4km/l on the highway on gas. It runs a tiny bit rich. Basic big Impco system.

You could watch the needle move on petrol in the past, but it had a partially blocked return line in the tank. About 4.5 - 5 km/l at a guess. Haven't wanted to try it on petrol since fix.

cheers, DL

Back to the drawing board

The LPG fitter pointed out that the LPG valve needs to be accessable to shut off in an emergency.Something that I know but forgot all about. Also the twin H66"s in the rear are 45deg tanks, not 90deg




So, I sat down & improvised a "remote" valve closing device. (see the cable above).

I removed the tank valve knob & press fitted it to a nut




I welded the nut to a wheel (two shock absorber washers back 2 back)



I then rigged up the hand throttle off the red County to act as an emergency pull. The regs would most likely only say the valve must be able to readily shut down manually Its about 130mm of cable that, when pulled out, gives 2.5 turns - plenty to get normal flow. It also needed a spring behind to keep the tension up and stop the cable unwinding itself.
I'll put in a hatch in the tray above as I want to use the area under there as long term storage and to reset the valve (I hope not).



I need to drop the rear tank(s) cradle about 80mm as the valve protector cabinets hit the tray when I spin them around.
Plenty of clearance, even at 8omm lower.

Not 45deg and hits the tray channel


Plenty of room.



It will give me more storage room above too. Every cloud has a silver lining The rear tank valves can be reached from the back above the chassis.
Also, the tray sits about 20mm lower at the back than the front,another boo boo, but too much work there, mainly getting the fuel filler to work. Its hardly noticable.

Nice work DJ - You've got a solution for everything!

Originally Posted by DeeJay

.... the tray sits about 20mm lower at the back than the front....,

Design Feature - helps when draining any spills!

Lookin goooood, still havn't seen any mud on it though

This thread is very inspiring DeeJay Landy looks great. Well done.

This has been a great build up. I have really enjoyed it DeeJay. Thanks.