Thread: 300tdi Viscous Fan Bearing - SOLUTIONS!

Good drawing

As far as i see it I would have to remove the flang from the old shaft and press it on to the new bearing/shaft. Am i correct?

Correct - if you have a new shaft. But you could also use the old if you don't cut it.

From your email I am not sure if you are attempting to use the old shaft or a new one.

When you purchased bearing JD 9257 did you also buy a new shaft? Does part number JD 9257 = bearing and shaft?

Essentially you must have a flange, a shaft, and a bearing. Don't cut your old shaft if you do not have a new one.

When I made my repair the flange, shaft and bearing were all assembled as one piece by the manufacturer.

From what the manufacturer sent me, it was expected I would line up the bearing end to the hole and either use a press, or hit gently with a hammer and drift, on the top of the shaft to force the bearing home. I chose the hammer and drift. The shaft did not slide out of the bearing at any stage – I get the impression that the shaft in bearing is much tighter than the bearing is into timing cover.

In your case (if you don't have a new shaft) I would try to get the whole assembly out in one piece as per my diagram.

Remove the old bearing but not the flange.

Drive the shaft with its flange into the new bearing. Insert as I did, above, as if it all came assembled from manufacturer.

Alternatively, and again as above, get the whole assembly out in one piece as per my diagram and leave the flange on the shaft. Pull the old bearing. But in this example drive bearing into timing cover. Drive in the shaft, but before you do, put something under the bearing to stop the bearing from traveling into the timing cover further than it should.

Or, take the whole think to a garage

Not sure how much more I can help you.

Just occurred to me as I was nodding off to sleep for the night - are you trying to replace the bearing while the timing cover is still on the engine?

If so, then not the way I would do it. Anyone else tackled this while cover still on engine?

From the pictures i have recieved the new bearing comes with a new shaft, mad my intention was to move the old flang to the new shaft. In the connection i was wondering if the right procedure was to install the flang frist (onto the new shaft) and then install the bearing, or install then new bearing and then flang.

Halling,
from this website
JD9257 - Bearing, Water Pump Shaft for John Deere | TractorJoe.com
I see that the bearing you have sourced will be similar to the KOYO double spindle bearing mentioned in the original post.

You will then need to do the following as mentioned in the first post:

OPTION 4: This is the real money saver if your 4 bolt flange is intact, timing cover is intact and you are just fighting a squeeling bearing. You can buy the water pump bearing that will do the job. I went to four Cairns bearing suppliers and finally came up trumps at AWB Bearings with a KOYO part number 88580 2RS cost $33.75. Interestingly SKF do not produce/ will not sell the part that is used in the OEM timing cover and they do not stock a generic pump bearing of the correct size

-Take bearing, remove one spindle
-Cut other spindle to depth of flange broach.
-After removing the original bearing, press off the 4bolt flange and then press modified 88580 2RS and old 4bolt flange back into housing.




So - in step by step,

1/ Take some measurements for clearance of OEM bearing to housing, flange to face of housing and flange to face of bearing etc etc.

2/ Then press dead bearing and flange from the housing - I would NOT recommend using a hammer for this task.

3/ Then fully support the back side of the flange and press the central portion of the spindle, this will press the flange off the dead bearing.

4/ Now take your JD9257, cut off the spindle which is the wrong diameter as flush as you can to the bearing body.

5/ Cut the other spindle to the correct length (from your measurements at step one)

6/ Support the bearing and gently press the flange onto the new bearing and finally press the refurbed unit into the case.

Just be slow and careful - the flange is cast and fragile. If it breaks you will need to source or manufacture a new one.

Steve

Hi

Sorry for my late reply, but my computer has been upgraded to Windos 8 which has not been trouble free at all.

I have now recieved the bearing and will follow Roverrescue's step plan. By the way how did you support the cover while pressing out the bearing?

Thanks for all the help.

When I did mine I supported the cover with a piece of pipe slightly larger than the outer diameter of the bearing.

The original LR flange is weak as **** and easily broken, as it is only cast. I broke mine so I used a Falcon one, which is steel and much stronger.

Guys

I would like to thank everbody who contributed to this thread, yet again AULRO community have provided fantastic information and technical advise and saved myself some coin.

I wasn't happy with the whole having to replace the cover just for a cheap bearing, so after researching and finding this thread I went to JD and purchased JD9257 cut down the correct spindle and cut off the incorrect spindle. Luckily i have a 20t press so pressing the old out and new in was never an issue, but I made a rookie error when pressing the hub flange onto the new bearing and snapped it. Being a sunday arvo and public holiday monday my options we're not favourable, so went to supercheap and looked at a falcon water pump but with a few measurements of the spindle was not convinced. So Tuesday off to see Dwayne at MR and they delivered, he showed me there Maxi drive flange and with not many options I bought it $48, considering the falcon pump was $60 and think I chose the right option. Attached is i picture of the OEM bearing next to the JD bearing after i modified it and the new flange, why they didn't manufacturer them from the factory like this beats the hell out of me.