Thread: Winch Service (warn)

Good points.

For me at least, the 6hp will either run a 2.5hp end or I will machine the 6hp end to suit. The winch will be flipped and the motor will run through the bar mounts cutout (the same way as the 10,000 and 12000lb winches do) so the increase in length wont be a problem or offsetting the fairlead. If you seal the motor completely, apparently it will still produce condensation in them - apparently the totally sealed Brawns did this... as I said... apparently. The breather in the top allows some minor air movement to prevent the condensation and the hose off the breather runs up to the firewall to prevent water getting in, much like it does for gearboxs and axles. I do tend to think that its not a bad idea also (as suggested) to add low pressure air into the winch motor to bubble out any water if there are leaky points in the motor.

re mud... my 4.6hp had mud all in the end of it.

Originally Posted by moose

Just out of curiosity, if you seal the motor with silicone so the water doesn't get in in the first place, why would it matter if it can't get out? I would have thought a breather in the top would introduce more water to the motor.

You can never keep all water out. You can make it more resistant to getting water in, but you can't make it waterproof.
The breather at the top is like your diff breathers. It has a long pipe on it to make sure the air intake is well above water level.