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Thread: ARB Compressor Rebuild

  1. #1
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    ARB Compressor Rebuild

    Gday

    Dunno if this will help anyone but I did a search and no one else has posted one up so i thought bugger it, why not

    First thing was first. Dropped into ARB to get a blow up diagram of the compressor and a list of part numbers



    Heres the patient





    Recommended Kit



    Being stripped down





    Just a note: One of these three bolts you cant fit a socket on, luckily I got it undone with a pair of needle nose pliers. I plan to cut a slit across the top so if there is a next time it will just be a screw driver job


    Inlet and Exhaust valves, to get the exhaust valve out its a matter of pushing the 2 tabs together; in theory anyway. Its easier to just push one side through though. But it doesnt really matter if you break it cause thats one thing you'll be replacing anyway








    Cylinder removed




    I got the piston off just before, havent had a chance to take a photo yet but was a ***** of a thing. Ended up shoving a wire brush handle down beside the crank to stop it from turning.

    Tomorrow Ill be going into ARB to order the parts I need. No idea when they'll be in so dont hold your breath waiting for the end of this thread

    Any questions just fire away

    Also if Ive dont anything wrong please tell me Im still learning

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    A few questions for someone more experienced than me

    Went into ARB today, was surprised they had all the parts I wanted in stock

    Righto the questions:

    The bearing at the bottom of the conrod/piston assembly, should this be packed with grease before I refit it?

    It then says to tighten the cap screw which holds the piston to the crank to 11Nm; I dont have a torque wrench which makes it a little hard? Stupid question but how important is it to do the set torque?

    Also the head bolts need to be tightened to a certain torque

    What would you do?

    Thanks

  3. #3
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    I wouldn't worry too much about the torque settings. 11Nm isn't very much (@8lb/ft)

    Not many torque wrenches would do that accuratley. You would need a small one.

    I would just tighten it to a reasonable level with the Allen Key.

    Rgds
    Pete

  4. #4
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    Just do them up reasonably. 11Nm isn't a lot at all and the aluminium body will strip very quickly - if you're not happy then use a small amount of low grade (vibration blue) loctite. The hex bolt that holds the bigend bearing only does just that. The bearing is then an interference fit into the conrod - without disassembly, check that the bearing is still in there properly and not lose - if it is lose then replace it or bodgy it with loctite otherwise it will come apart while operating. I loctite the big end bolt too.

    This said, the piston looks like it hasnt done much work at all.

    For the bearing, its a sealed non-servicable bearing so don't sweat. if its gritty then you might washing it out with something like petrol and then soak lube back into it. If it spins freely then just leave it. IIRC I used to clean those types of bearing with WD40 spray and then I think it may have even been chain/bar lube that I used to run back in because it has some thickness and retaining properties.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  5. #5
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    Thanks I was thinking it wasnt too important

    Is the Loctite on the head bolts important?

    Havent got any

    Thanks

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jock The Rock View Post
    Thanks I was thinking it wasnt too important

    Is the Loctite on the head bolts important?

    Havent got any

    Thanks
    I dont think so because the thread on those screws seem to generate a lot of friction anyway. The big end I would loctite on the thread only.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  7. #7
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    Might have to go and find some Loctite for the hex head then

    It says to use 272 does that sound right?

    Thanks

  8. #8
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    It'll be something like that. I used the Permatex red instead which I think is the equivilent, or at least similar.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  9. #9
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    They did have to call it PUKT for a rebuild diagram didn't they!


  10. #10
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    272 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners

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