Printable View
On a RRC every 1/2" of lift causes a loss of 1 degree of caster. They have 3 degrees to start with. I put up with the shopping trolley effect from a 2" lift for years before rotating the swivels.
It makes a huge improvement to driveability and it is not hard to do yourself.
DL
Hi, I've long been aware of this issue but until recently my Disco hasn't been too bad. Why is it suddenly an issue after all these years. Is it castor or is something else making it more obvious (rear a arm ball joint, for instance).Quote:
Originally Posted by 350RRC
I had a period a couple of years ago when it was tram-lining badly etc and changing the steering box seemed to correct it. Now it is the worst it has ever been.
Any views most welcome.
Thanks
Cheers
Jim
Sclarke .... Brilliant post ... Trouble is that it gives me more Q's than I wanted
In the picture of drivers side ... you rotated Anti clockwise?
Bush65 .... I get what your saying ... Can you clarify
... // Hence .. For a front RRC diff ....
IF the front diff is turned to give the uni joints on the Diff & the T/C the same degrees .... so the propshaft must be set "out of phase"
IF the front diff uni joint is straight & the T/C is bent .... the propshaft is set "in phase"
Mcrover .... The problem with moving the spline to "out of phase" is that if it was balanced in phase .... you could upset the balancing // so you fix 1 problem ... but score a different one /// but give it a go
Rovercare .... Hardi Spicer set up my front "out of phase" propshaft 29degrees or 2 splines off (Sort of 1/4 turn) // Is this gonna be a contributing problem to funny vibrations
I have tried different positions with varying affects
350RRC .... Thank you for that info ... gives me a formula to work with
I appreciate your info ... and trying to make it apply to my RRC setup .. so I can get it right :) as you know it's a hard area to sort out as not even LR could sort out properly ... that big steel dampening weight might give the hint ;)
Mike
;)
Check all the steering links, wheel bearings and the like and then the radius rod bushings and if all looks good then I would consider that you may have bent something.
The thing is, from what I have heard, you need to go more than 2.5" to 3" to be effected in most cases from lack of CASTER (I recon ive got it right htis time Matt) so I would think that if it is something that has slowly become a problem then it is more than likely a wearing item that needs looking at.
sounds good,as long as theyll fit a late series 1 disco,im interested,as i can fit them when i fit lockers.cheers,Ramon.Quote:
Originally Posted by sclarke
No they will not, as clarkie would know, thats why he's selling them, yours will also be 7 bolt;)Quote:
Originally Posted by discologist
Exactly, unless you replace the diff housing as well you need a set of 7 bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
So the 6 bolt i have suit pre 85 RR
Can be a number of issues, including:Quote:
Originally Posted by pug303
Swivel bearing preload (lack of correct preload).
Pan hard bushes
Radius arm bushes
Tie rod ends
Tyres
Wheel alignment
Sorry not sure what you want here.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 90 RR
Sorry I can't make too much sense of this.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 90 RR
In the 1st part are you asking about rotating the front diff so that it will be at the same angle as the t/case?
Stock castor is 3 degrees.
Stock angle of front diff pinion is approximately 12 degrees (from memory) up towards the rear.
Stock angle of t/c, I haven't measured - my guess is 5 to 7 degrees down toward the rear.
Now, to make the front diff pinion parallel with the transfer case, you would have to rotate the front diff assembly 12 + 5 to 7 degrees (approx 18 degrees.
Then you would need to make the u-joints in the front tailshaft in phase so they don't vibrate.
You would also have to rotate the swivel balls forward approx 18 degrees to correct the castor angle.
Lastly but not leastly, you would have to find some u-joints that can operate at high angles (the stock ones won't come close) - remember when the diff pinion is rotated down it make the angle of the tailshaft much steeper.
The other problem you would find is that the tie/track rod would be much lower than the axle housing and would be damaged easier.
Sorry, again I find it difficult to understand what you are asking.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 90 RR
I probably had a glass of wine before I made my previous post that you are questioning, but I thought it was reasonably straight forward.
If you disagree with, or can't follow something I said in that post, please quote the part/parts in question - don't put your words in among mine and hope that I can decipher them (it only confuses me as to what you are inferring).
Most likely culprit is swivel bearings, they develop 'straight ahead' wear marks over time and become more prone to it as they wear and loosen up. The bearings are cheap ($11) and it is easy to replace them.Quote:
Originally Posted by pug303
:eek: You are kidding I hope or do you mean in total? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
BTW Happy new year to all