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Thread: Patching a small hole in Cross Member

  1. #1
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    Patching a small hole in Cross Member

    Hey guys, looking at a Series III that is for sale around the corner from my place. Havn't had a look at it yet, but the guy told me there is a small hole in the rear cross member. Would this be hard to patch up? I'm assuming I could just clean it up and weld a meal plate over the hole and paint? Correct? I'm not too fussed about it looking neat, this isn't a restoration, I just want a Landy that runs.

    Any tips?

  2. #2
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    From what I know, the preference is to cut the rust out and replace the metal, rather than plating. Rear cross members on these things are prime for rot - if you fix it properly once and keep it clean underneath, you should avert future major work.

    Depends how bad the rust is, and if it has got into the chassis rail(s)

    Worst comes to worst, you can strip the back end right to chassis in a day with a mate helping, and weld in a whole new cross member!


    Big meccano sets these things.

    If there is rust in the fire wall, beware. Big job.

    Welcome to aulro!
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  3. #3
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    Cheers mate. Yeah I've been warned plenty of times about firewall rot, and to avoid it. The vehicle seams in good condition, with just the rear x member being in a bit of a state and the doors having a bit of rot in them....should be able to buy replacements from Brit Parts no?

  4. #4
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    Yep doors tops are around - try and get second handies if you can. New ones are $$$ relative to the cost of the car!

    You can get cross members off the shelf too if you need.

    Where abouts are you? WA?


    Is the truck a LWB or SWB?

    It would also be worth checking the front dumbirons for rust too. These are also freely available if they need replacing, or you can do a bit of metal fab and fix them yourself if you are handy with a grinder and a welder.
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #5
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    I'm in Perth mate.
    It's a SWB. He sent me photos (as I havn't had a chance to look at it yet) and it looks in reasonable condition, especially considering it's age
    I would post photos but I'm at work at the moment. Might try and take my own pics tonight and post them up here.

  6. #6
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    Yep - pics are good!
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  7. #7
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    Well I had a look at the car, but didnt have a chance to get pics. I did like it and was stoked to realise it was a diesel. The rear x-member was a bit worse than I expected. Would this be expensive to purchase a replacement? There's plenty of minor jobs to be done but the engine seams to be in great condition with plenty of diesel grunt.

    Number one problem at the moment? convincing my parents to let me keep the car at their place.

  8. #8
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    Cross members are easily obtainable through various Landy parts places, but being on the other side of AU to you I can't recommend one local to you!

    I picked up my cross member off ebay for $120 - I think they go for less than $300 retail.

    Drop in on the WA AULROvians group on this forum and ask for some local knowledge. Someone may have a good second handy they will donate or sell for a 6 pack.

    Diesel is good, as long as you don't mind going slow! - Blknight.aus (Dave) is the resident expert on all things mechanical here, and he has a 2.25 Diesel in his truck so he knows them inside out. A good source of advice there.

    One thing to keep in mind, is that if the X-member is shagged, there may or may not be rust elsewhere. Check VERY closely everywhere, especially the firewall. Take a screwdriver and poke around to find flaky spots or holes. It could be good though - my SWB has a shagged rear member but the rest of the chassis is perfect.
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  9. #9
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    Just rang Brian at Land Vehicle Spares over here, and he has 'em for $325 + GST (so around $350)

    I wouldn't recommend freighting one over, but that should give you a benchmark.
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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