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Thread: defender 110 ute

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bush65 View Post
    The bladder has a female thread for a bolt.
    You will find that what you have been supplied is a length of 1/2" UNC threaded rod that is screwed into the bladder. It extends beyond the lower surface of the piston so that it can be used to secure the assembly to your mount. You can shorten the threaded rod if you wish and use a nut to secure the bladder to the piston. Then use another method to secure the assembly to your mount - remember that on full compression the bladder will roll down the piston and beyond the outer lip at the base.

    BTW, the piston diameter increase at its base is to increase the spring rate when the bladder is on that part of the piston.

    Edit:
    You can see the threaded rod in the pic I posted earlier. If you cut the threaded rod the nut will go up at the top of the recess (or you could use a bolt. Only friction between the bladder and piston are holding them together without a bolt or nut and threaded rod. You can separate them but be warned, take care not to extend the bladder as you will have trouble getting it back to the working position on your vehicle.

    Thanks John!

    The piston I have has 2 threaded holes in the base to secure the piston to the baseplate (shown in your pic). I assume that the centre bolt doesn't need much torque then if it is only holding the bladder on?

    As supplied, there is a pressed steel nut at the top of the recess to hold everythung together, however there is ~5-8 mm play between the bellows and piston.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    'The Creek' Captain Creek, QLD
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    You can see that if you use a nut on the centre stud to hold the assembly to the mount, then the bladder would be pulled down into the recess on top of the piston and the pressed nut then becomes unnecessary.

    However if you mount it using the 2 bolt holes, then I would use a spring lock washer with a normal nut or a bolt to fasten the bladder to the piston. I would tighten then as normal for a 1/2" bolt.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Carlton, Melbourne
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    Well!
    I fitted a pair of RR P38a rear air springs today to my 130 and was really happy with the ride , so I've ordered 2 of the above bags tonight!
    I don't think the RR bags could carry anywhere near the weight I need to carry, but the firestone bags are able to carry around 3000 lbs each, which is way above what I need.
    Now to fabricate some brackets....then the rest of the project.......I'll keep you all posted!

    Thanks to Hally for the pictures of the brackets, and Bush65 for the info!!!

    Fraser

  4. #44
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Carlton, Melbourne
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    Well the bags arrived yesterday, they are definately "the real McCoy"
    Much heavier duty than the RR bags, I guess they are from Trucksprings!
    They are a lot "Fatter" than I thought, I'm hoping they don't sit too close or rub on the rear tyres.
    Otherwise I'll need to change the ofset on hy disco rims - story of my life one thing leads to another, to another, to another, ad nauseum!!
    Now to get some prices on laser cutting steel........

    Fraser

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Update

    Well I managed to convince my Boss to let me buy a defender 130 dual cab. I picked it up a couple of weeks ago and my first drive home I thought what the hell have i done i guess i was spoilt with a nice car like ride and quiet almost no noise inside the cab from the 2009 ford ranger dualcab I had. But after one week it all came back love it I use every excuse to go for a drive even if its just to the shops. Took it to double Island on the long weekend it seemed to be a lot better suited to the sand than my 110 it just felt good and never felt like struggling (not that DI has challanging driving).

    The first thing I did was Bought a secondhand tray from MR automotive for $600 I was missing a few things but I will slowly get them all. the tray is the alaska white and the new Puma is Fuji white so once i gather all the little trimmings etc I will respray it to match the car all up it should cost under $2000.

    Second thing
    My wife and I just had our second child so I desparately needed anchor points I found a guy called Barry he came to my house and it took about 40mins to put in two points and $185 his website is Home he also does the wagons with the crab bar that I have noticed on some 110s










    The main reason I wanted this truck is I wanted to start towing my 110 around and I usually pick up cable drums that way aroung 500kg etc so need something that could do it all plus there is not much else on the market in the way of dualcabs that can do what I want.




    four weeks have gone by and sofar these are the things that have gone wrong.
    1. as I drove it out of the showroom and down to work the next day the wheel wobble was worse than my 110 with 36" simexs on it .
    2. I can see the water running down the inside apillar and onto my foot LOL just like my 1998 110. the gutter has cracked and all the paint is peeling away.
    3. the 4wd gear level wont stay to the right or the left when I get the revs up and go around a corner it engages into 4wd so I got to pull over and reverse to disengage it. Then when I was on Double Island it kept disengaging out of 4wd due to the bumps.

    I booked it into austral land rover to get these things fixed and instead they fixed the recall (which was the oil leak on the handbrake drum) and balanced the tyres. I have to go back next week to get hte other things fixed which is fine atleast they are sorting these things out under warranty

    so when I picked it up yesterday I tested it out and wheel wobble is still there but not as bad I cracked the ****s and decided to put on my road going tyres from my 110


    Before



    After




    the original tyres are a huge improvement on the old tractor tyres for alterrain use I do like this pattern


    Original V New


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