Thread: LT230, propshaft Removal, Handbrake cable change, Uj Change (pic heavy)

Start out by removing the propshaft. the instructions are up there ^.

Assuming youve planned ahead you should ,by now be laying under the vehicle and have at hand the following additional tools

a pair of combination (bullnosed) pliers
a pair of 45 degree offset needle nose pliers
a pair of needle nose pliers
a small flat head screwdriver
a can of wd40 or similar
an Impact driver with a large pozidrive head (yes phillips will work you butcher)
a hammer.
a 17mm 3/8th inch drive socket
A 3/8th inch drive ratchet
money for the swear jar, you are going to need it.

and be looking at


The parkbrake drum set the impact driver to undo and unscrew that machine screw if your lucky it just unscrews. Once its out pull the drum, clean and inspect as required, if thats all your changing lucky you. otherwise you should now be looking at this.


naturally it wont have speech bubbles identifying bits.

remove all the following

• the space plate retaining spring (pull the u bend backwards and down with needle nose piers
• the left side (the speech bubbled one) shoe retainter (reach behind the backing plate and press the back of the pin with your finger, grab the spring plate with a pair of bull nose pliers push it inwards then turn it 90 degrees)
• The retracting spring (grab the center with a pair of bull nose pliers and pull it towards the right shoe then outwards)

and you should wind up with something like this



now reach in behind the right shoe with the 45 degree needle nose pliers and pull the locating pin towards the shoe with the pliers then repeat the bull nose pliers trick on the second shoe locating pin. (when you're reassembling this bit will lead to swearwords)

now that you have both shoes free rotate them around so you can see the cable retaining end grab the spring with the 45 degree pliers then pull it away from the actuating arm and twist it out of the retainer.



now with both pair of needle nose pliers rotate the cable retainer untill you can see the split in it, pry at and tear it off then pull the cable out of the backing plate.

Now head up into the cab and remove the plug that retains the handbrake cover unbend the split pin remove it and then pull the clevis pin out



ratchet the hand brake to full up then identify the cable gromit, with the screwdriver pry the gromit away from the edge of the seat box and give it some wd40. do that to the top and bottom of the grommit and then reach under the car and yank the cable out.



Replacing the cable is some what more swear word inducing. First install the cable into the backing plate


Wedge the actuator arm away from the right hand shoe then pull the spring partway back on the cable, stick the cap of the terminatorinto the slot and hold it with your thumb, you should then be able to pull the spring all the way back, bend the cable under the hook of the retainer, let the spring go so it seats on the retainer and then reposition the terminator so its in the correct position. Sounds fun, wait till you try it. But its still not the worst bit.


now replace the shoes onto the backing plate and then attach the spacer plate retaining spring, the left hand shoe locating pin and spring


If they have fallen out put the expander wedges back in the shoe adjuster at the bottom of the backing plate


and replace the retracting spring


At this point you can install the shoe retainer on the right hand shoe. (have the money handy)

When youve got that done put the drum back on and wind the screw back in, tighten it up Dont loctite it. Stick the nose of the cable through the hole in the seat box.

with one pair of pliers pull the nose of the terminator out and sneak under it with the needle nose pliers pull the cable though as much as you can.

release the handbrake lever to the lowest position you can get it to, align the terminator with the holes in the handle


and insert the clevis pin and then split pin it.


Duck under the vehicle and adjust up the shoe position adjuster untill the shoes juuust touch the drum.


If needed you can now also adjust the handbrake adjuster under the seat box 17+15mm open end spanners but I have never had to adjust the cable on replacement.

If thats all your doing, reattach the prop shaft and take the vehicle for a test drive.

Next Re UJ'ing A propshaft.

I'll only cover one side in this bit as once youve done one UJ on the shaft the others the same so without further ado with your freshly removed propshaft in hand take it and put it on the table with the following

a vice
vice grips
6/7/8 mm sockets + drivers
internal circlip pliers
slip joint pliers
an impact socket set
a hammer
screw driver
scribe
center punch.
grease
a paint pen.

Some of these wont be required but are helpful in cleaning things up and bodging things that dont want to play.

If you havent already go clean the shaft. and leave it in the sun while you do the handbrake work or have a coffee/beer whatevers applicable.

then

Remove the grease nipples (all 3)


then match mark the slip joint


while thats drying clean off and inspect all the weights and the welds on the shaft, this is what a correctly attached weight looks like


pull the rubber joiner off of the slip joint and then unscrew the retainer and slide the shaft apart.
now pull the circlips out of the yokes.

If the circlip pliers slip out while the circlip is half way out and its too misaligned to get them back in try this
[ame=http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee78/blknight_aus/?action=view&current=003CirclipSlip.flv][/ame]

IF you get one that you cant shift with the circlip pliers OR you break the pliers use a center punch to drift the eyes in towards the center dont be gentle it doesnt matter if you damage the bearing you're replacing it anyway.


if you get it right the circlip should be bent in from the edge enough to get a screw driver in.


if youve got that happening do this with a screwdriver
[ame=http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee78/blknight_aus/?action=view&current=006clipbend.flv][/ame]

once thats bent up enough grab it with the circlip pliers
[ame=http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee78/blknight_aus/?action=view&current=007clipextract.flv][/ame]

Heres the 4 clips the 2 on the left are useable, the one at the top right is ok but its got a minor twist in it (removed with screwdriver) the one on the bottom right is fubar (removed with center punch, screwdriver and vice grips).

open up the vice so that the shoulders of the flange yoke sit over the jaws of the vice


then smack the shaft yoke (not too close to the bearing aparture) so the bearing cup stands proud, smack the yoke down as far as you can


when the bearing cap is up far enough grab it with the vice grips and rip it out when its clear turn the shaft 180 and start work on the other bearing cup


then manouver the cross piece clear of the yoke


hammer the flange yoke off in the same manner


done right you should now have this on the table.


now clean the bearing apartures especially the grooves for the circlips


shiney, grab your new uj kit rip it apart and check the parts against the old ones for sizing, carefully pry the cups off of the cross piece and place them aside somewhere clean. Align the cross piece and the yokes then detetris the new crosspiece into the flange side yoke.


push the cross piece all the way to one side of the flange yoke hand press a bearing cup into the other and then slide the cross piece into the cup. Place an impact socket (or other suitable driving piece) in line with the cup and mount it all up in a press or the vice.


wind it in untill the edge of the cross piece is level with the other edge of the yoke


then place the bearing cup in place, slide the cross piece towards the cup so its partially engaged, swap the driver onto the new cup and press it back most of the way


pull the lot make sure that both cups are correctly seated on the cross piece and then insert a new circlip.


Circlips have an orientation if you look very closely you will see that one side of the circlip will be dished and have sharp edges and the other will be domed and have a curved edge. The curved edge goes towards the bearing cup. when you have the circlip in place press the cups back till they are flush and you can get the second circlip in


Now that you have one side of the UJ assmbled the next side is the same Take care to orient the holes for the grease nipples


And then repeat the same procedure as above to complete the shaft side yoke.

once you have it all assembled and clipped rest it on the vice as though you were going to take it apart and with the circlips in place smack each side once this pushes the bearings back up hard against the circlips and frees up the yoke.

Do the other UJ on the shaft, then using your matching marks assemble the shaft (you inspected the slip joint splines right) and screw the retainer back onto the slip joint then install the grease nipples and give them a shot each.


jobs done go put the shaft back in then clean up.

hey

i have to drop the rear shaft as my handbrake has locked on. so far i have undone the shaft at the diff end. when i came to undo the other end i found the nuts a bit round however got them loosened off. now the problem is 3 of the nuts are spining in place meaning i cant undo the nuts.

how can i get round this hacksaw or grinder maybe. what are your thoughts.

dan

In that situation I use a die grinder.

you could hacksaw or grinder them off from the backside of the drive flange but you'll be working upside down and probabley cack handed. Be careful not to hit the flange itself or that means diff work to get the flange changed.

Great write up, yet another thing to add to my list.....

However some of the photos were a little blurry, do you mind doing it all again and getting the focus right??? haha

Cheers

mechanic, not photographer...

those who complain are destined to take the role of the part they complain about....