Thread: Dual tow hooks and tie down design for D3/LR3

The only comments I have is that when using a bridle front or rear you should use a strap that is long enough to keep the angle formed well below 90 degrees, ideally less than 45 degrees.
It seems that your shackle holes are are in in the vertical axis, which is good as it allows the shackle to align itself with the line of pull, shackles attached to holes that are horizontal place undue stress on the shckle as it jams against the pin hole or bracket, shackles (D or Bow) are designed to only be pulled straight ahead and not sideways in a horizontal pin position, Regards Frank.

I appreciated your comments re the bridle design.

For the bridle, I was intending to use a 30 ft length of non-elastic 3" recovery strap with fabric loops at both ends.

By my calculations, then the two 15 ft long legs yields an internal angle at the "central" tow point of somewhere between 15 and 20 degrees between the two strap section where they return back to the proposed Land Rover attach points.

If I understand that correctly then, at least I have that part of the thinking correct.

At least with the bridle, the chances of the frame being twisted at the attach points is somewhat reduced and that is a major concern of mine as I am certain that with the centre mount Land Rover rear attach point that there would be no twisting action so I do not want to make things worse.

Thanks Bruce

Originally Posted by bbyer

Given that the 3 has an excellent factory centre rear tow hook, I agree that there can be the view that this design is a solution to a non existent problem. I have however seen comments that at times, there can be a requirement for dual tow points.

Hi Bruce,

I guess for me your above comment seems very relevant however I do accept other points may be required.

On my 101 I did almost exactly the same as you describe. ARB here sell "tow hooks" rated at 4500kg/10,000lb (there is not indication whether this is safe working load or min fail load) that look basically the same as the ones you used. I bolted one to each front spring hanger and I have used them in anger.

While the use of one hook is strong enough for winching I was concerned that when snatching my 101 if fully loaded and bad conditions the snatch might go close to the max load of these hooks so hence the two. Pulling just on one side of the chassis is not such an issue in the 101 (the winch pulls from one side only) but could be on other vehicles.

For a bridle I use two tree protection straps (one is not rated enough in my view - particularly for a snatch) but ARB do sell a plasma rope bridle for about $90. It is rated at about 10000lb - again a bit light for me but it has given me the idea of getting a piece of heavier grade plasma and getting it made into a bridle - this will provide extra strength and allow for a bit of wear abrasion.

I did consider a wire rope bridle but it would be a bit cumbersome to carry around and left on all the time runs the risk of getting caught on undergrowth etc.

So - based on my experience what you proposing would work well but as I understand it the single original ring at the front is OK.

Based on your logic for doing what you have designed - what about the rear of the car? Afterall most recoveries are to pull backwards out of a bog not through it. I have just put on a Mitch Hitch on the rear of my RRS and will be using one of these to recover it backwards - noting the hitch is only rated at 3500kg so I will be supervising any snatch recovery to ensure the minimum of force was used.

A 101, that is kind of special. I doubt that there are any here in Canada at all. We do occassionally see ex MOD Defenders in rather distorted shapes however. The Royal Army has a tank training facility here in Southern Alberta and some Defenders tend to get slightly run over. As such, those units make it to the auction and are snapped up - for the serial number plate I suppose.

I suspect that the ARB and Smittybilt hooks are from the same factory in Taiwan, at least that is where the Smittybilt box says theirs are made.

I note that Curt appears to have about the same hook, two bolts holes however, but at least the 10,000 lbs is marked and as you said, whatever that means.

I have seen other similar hooks, but without any marking so I suppose those ones are from the knockoff factory in China proper.

Actually, my plan is for the tow assemblies to be mounted on the rear to the frame between the muffler and the spare tyre location - hence dual rear tow points.

Re the front, I expect that I will just remain with the single LR point as doing anything up front that does not hang down alot is tough to figure out. Also as you said, rear tows are the most common, particularily here where one tends to slide off the road due to snow etc.

Also I have visions of installing a bash plate up front so that makes the factory front tow point a bit more readily accessible.

As to strap loading, I wondered if since I was planning on using a single strap but anchored at both ends, should I assume that the strap load is effectively not divided as the forces all come together at the V. I had not really thought of that, hence two individual shorter straps, (four end loops rather than two), as you do it, make more sense and are more safe. This towing / recovery business is tricky - one has to think a bit.

Originally Posted by bbyer

I suspect that the ARB and Smittybilt hooks are from the same factory in Taiwan, at least that is where the Smittybilt box says theirs are made.

The ARB ones are made in either the PRC or Taiwan

Originally Posted by bbyer

Actually, my plan is for the tow assemblies to be mounted on the rear to the frame between the muffler and the spare tyre location - hence dual rear tow points.

Silly me - did not read you original post correctly .

Originally Posted by bbyer

As to strap loading, I wondered if since I was planning on using a single strap but anchored at both ends, should I assume that the strap load is effectively not divided as the forces all come together at the V. I had not really thought of that, hence two individual shorter straps, (four end loops rather than two), as you do it, make more sense and are more safe. This towing / recovery business is tricky - one has to think a bit.

I only use two straps as a bridle as the tree protection straps are only ever used for winching so are only about the half the strength (about 3500kg) required for snatching. Ideally the bridle should have the same rating as the rest of the gear being used eg maybe up to 10,000kg for a heavy snatch of a heavy vehicle to about 9000lb for a winch with a 9000lb winch. You do not need to make the bridle double the size of your other gear - I just use two tree truck protectors as that is what I have and it then give me about the correct rating that I need.

Garry

I was just looking on the ARB site and see that they have two lengths of tree strap, 3 m and 5 m.

I would think then that a pair of the 5 metre lengths would work quite nicely for a bridle?

In due course I will change over to a length of plasma rope - much stronger, lighter and easier to store.

Garry

I have heard the word plasma, as related to rope but that is about all. Is there a link to I guess a supplier where I could read up on what it is?

I am not exactly at the leading edge of anything here other than digging out of snow drifts - that I am good at, and normally before I am stuck - the digging is just to get at the door handle.

That is however alot better than tangling with crocs just to get at your overnight submerged Rover - some not so nice pictures coming out of Rockhampton on our TV's these days.