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Thread: Running a Winch rope from the middle?

  1. #11
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    Hey Mudhog,

    Check out this thread on my 8000lb Thomas mid-mount. I have used it over the summer as a simple rear facing winch as a temporary firewood gathering job. Over the next little while i may well finish to go both rearward and forward. Bit hard to finish things on part time work wages though.

    Cheers

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by flagg View Post
    I think the LR 101 Forward Control's use a central PTO winch which can be cabled front or rear. Could be worth pointing to this thread from the FC's / REMLR section.
    The 101 winch is actually a capstan winch that has a limited rope length and can not be fitted with the poly ropes.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  3. #13
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    I think just forwards at this stage, if I look at entering a Winch Comp later we may alter it so that we can use it backwards as well.

    Cheers
    Brett

  4. #14
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    Hi Windsock,

    I had a Thomas PTO and still have all the spec sheets somewhere.

    If they can be of help, just let me know and I'll send you a copy.

    Cheers
    Brett

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    The 101 winch is actually a capstan winch that has a limited rope length and can not be fitted with the poly ropes.
    what do you mean by capstan winch?
    why would there be any difference in steel or rope if the same dia??? I believe they had a low rating also???

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudhog1974classic View Post
    Hi 123rover50,

    How have you run the rope up to the front?

    Any chance of some photo's?

    Any information would be a great help.

    My Rangie has got a 50mm body lift and I have had a good look under neath and can see the way I think the rope will go. I'm just not sure of what to run the rope in?

    What about the heat from the exhaust!! Is this going to be a problem?

    Cheers
    Brett
    The 120 ute runs a crane and only winches from the back.
    The 2 FC,s have a pulley on the corner. Not much help on a Rangie but I will get a pic tomorrow.

  7. #17
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    I was hoping that one of the Guy's with a Comp truck might have something like this on there trucks and be able to help .

    Mudhog has been of the road for two years with some repair work needed.

    Here's a list of the things I've done:

    New front body mounts we made( old ones had a 60mm rust hole in them)
    New rear body mount cross member( the one the back door hinges on)
    New sills both sides made by a friend( he own's a truck body building company)
    Removed the Lpg plumbing and regulator( including a large 85ltr tank)
    Replaced the front brake calipers (1 pistons seized on each side)
    Fitted new brake pads and bleed the system
    Fitted a 50mm body lift ( From Rovertym in the USA- I would make my own next time!!!)
    Replaced both doors with second hand ones ( old doors had rust around the hinges)
    Replace the rear lower tailgate with a second hand one ( old one was full of rust)
    Fitted rubber flares and cut more away in the guards to fit the 35 inch Silverstone MT-117 Xtremes.( replaced the LRA Fibreglass ones as I kept breaking them!!)
    Rebuilt the front passenger side corner after hitting a tree on a club run( this was the final damage that started the repairs)
    Replaced rear passenger side corner panel.( had been damaged at sometime)
    Replaced the front seat's with second hand one's( I have no back seat)
    Rewired the rear lights and tided up the wire at the same time.
    I had to panel beat the floor around the hand brake, with the 50mm lift this was the easiest way to get the hand brake handle sitting in the right place.
    Low and High lever needs to be lengthened- this didn't come in the kit!!

    I'm going to be going for a WOF ( Warrant of Fitness over here) tomorrow, so I'm checking over everything that might be a problem!!!

    Thing's still to do once I have a WOF:

    Make up rock sliders
    Remake the front and rear bumpers
    Fit my winch (mid mounted Twin motor job!!)
    Work out what sort of rollcage I need
    Make up inner door panels and change the inside handles to something smaller(looking at using Disco 1 inside door handles)
    Get the truck painted as it is 3 different colours

    It will be Great to able to go out in the Hog again, my almost 3 year old daughter can't wait. I told here that I couldn't drive Mudhog because he didn't have a WOF and she has been reminding me constantly about the fact!!

    Don't you just love Kid's

    She now call's Mudhog her and Dad's truck!!

    Cheers
    Brett

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudhog1974classic View Post
    Hi Windsock,

    I had a Thomas PTO and still have all the spec sheets somewhere.

    If they can be of help, just let me know and I'll send you a copy.

    Cheers
    Brett
    Cheers Brett, I downloaded the info from Danny on here. Keep the updates coming on your LR. I've noticed you will be trialling the twin motor tigerz thing. Will be interested to see how it goes speed and reliability wise.

    All the best,

    Phil

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    what do you mean by capstan winch?
    why would there be any difference in steel or rope if the same dia??? I believe they had a low rating also???
    there are two main types of winches in respect to the rope:
    • the drum winch, the type we know, where the rope end is fixed to the drum and the rest of the rope length stored on the drum by winding in like a cotton reel.
    • The capstan winch, has it's rope stored somewhere else, is usually like a rotating bollard and the rope is wrapped around the bollard a couple of times and held in tension on the bollard to enable drive. In the 101 capstan, the reason the rope type is important is the clamping mechanism that holds the tension on the bollard. Sailing ships have capstan winches.


    An Aeroparts capstan winch for Land Rover - where a hemp or sizal rope is wound around the bollard. (the LR 101 winch is enclosed)


    Last edited by Lotz-A-Landies; 2nd February 2011 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Images

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    there are two main types of winches in respect to the rope:
    • the drum winch, the type we know, where the rope end is fixed to the drum and the rest of the rope length stored on the drum by winding in like a cotton reel.
    • The capstan winch, has it's rope stored somewhere else, is usually like a rotating bollard and the rope is wrapped around the bollard a couple of times and held in tension on the bollard to enable drive. In the 101 capstan, the reason the rope type is important is the clamping mechanism that holds the tension on the bollard. Sailing ships have capstan winches.
    The 101 winch I spose could be described as a capstan winch with a driven storage drum. Not 100% familiar with them but beleive that they are sensitive to adjustment of the clutch that drives the light roller chain that in turn drives the storage drum, so as to avoid the drum from being subject to pulling loads.A friend of mine with a 101Camper is replacing his Kockums (SP?)winch with a self built front mounted wormdrive PTO unit mainly due to concerns over kinking the chassis rail in a heavy winching scenario.The pulling loads on a 101 winch are cantilevered outboard of the left hand chassis rail which despite external appearance are not made from railway lines.We believe the winches original purpose was for precise positioning of artillary guns and light self recovery only.The other concern was if you are winching another vehicle or load up a steep hill, and for some reason you need to press the clutch pedal, the load will tend to roll or slide back down the hill because the winch gearing is not self locking like a worm driven unit.

    I've searched to no avail the various 4wd forums that i've been involved with for a photo of a Hybrid Rover I built some years ago with an electric centre mounted winch with a pulley arrangement at the rear and guide tubes to the front for 1:1 ratio front pulls and 2:1 rear pulls, without any need to rethread the rope.I'm also agisting a hybrid with a pto centre mounted winch with a similar arrangement, but I'm an Internet retard and don't have the gear to post photos.
    Wagoo.

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