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Thread: Low mount winch, 9000lb, recomendations

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Launceston, TAS
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    The problem with winching out is your remote cord is around 5 metres long, your winch cable is around 30m long. That means unspooling it in a pile, putting the remote down walking the cable out, hopefully there is enough out, if not go back and unspool some more. Hook up. Now go back and feed the slack cable back on to the drum with some tension and nice and even. Then you can start winching/recovery.

    Doesn't sound too bad does it? Now go stand in slopy ankle deep mud or in a creek/clay slope and try it.

    That doesn't even cover power usage, winching out still uses plenty of amps, winches are thirsty things.

    If you intend to stick with your current set up I'd strongly suggest you change to a synthetic winch cable, doing the above with heavy winch cable is not fun.

    There is a reason all the winches have a free spool on them, If it wasn't all that important it wouldn't be on them all, leaving it off would make them cheaper to manufacture and sell.
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  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    England
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    Hence the reason you pick up a wireless remote! Even the cheap ones from Draper last a couple of years and can be made waterproof.

    Also a good reason for an air or electric freespool...

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by nonimouse View Post
    Hence the reason you pick up a wireless remote! Even the cheap ones from Draper last a couple of years and can be made waterproof.

    Also a good reason for an air or electric freespool...
    I've got a wireless remote for it.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Launceston, TAS
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    Make sure you have an isolation switch if you have a wireless remote....

    I'll dig out some photos of a couple of vehicles that have had the misfortune of the winch deciding to start winching itself. This was put down to interference from something. One was in a suburban driveway and the other driving down a track with no obvious reason for it to do so.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by cookiesa View Post
    Make sure you have an isolation switch if you have a wireless remote....

    I'll dig out some photos of a couple of vehicles that have had the misfortune of the winch deciding to start winching itself. This was put down to interference from something. One was in a suburban driveway and the other driving down a track with no obvious reason for it to do so.
    Yeah, I run an isolation switch under the bonnet next to the secondary battery. I also remove the clevis? Hook from the winch so if it was run the cable should just roll around the winch. I'm still keen to see these photos though!

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Heathridge, W.A.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cookiesa View Post
    You will also want to wire it up to your main battery rather than your auxillary. You want to keep the power up to it, higher voltage = less amp draw.
    x2

    This is important

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Bridgetown
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    Bumping this as I have the same bar and car and am now looking for a winch.
    How is the Ironman winch going? Still alive?
    There's a Warn lowmount tabor 9000 on ebay for $895 which is pretty good for a reputable brand I reckon.

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