Thread: Winch- Front or Rear

Swapping to front
note the fairhead is fitted.

On the hook I now have a quick release hair pin instead of a split pin to hold on the hook to the cable end

In all seriousness.... (As I had assumed you were talking about where you were going to rig the 101)

why not set up a cradle mounted winch that goes into the receiver and the put another reciever in the front.

you dont need massive 1000000000000000000LB winch, you can get away with a small 1800LB job if your only a little stuck and a set of blocks will let you reeve up to 6:1 quite easily giving you plenty of pull if you need it and the whole thing is nice and light, powering one of them isnt a big deal either.

if you leave me the 101 in the will I'll give you one of my spare tirfors.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

In all seriousness.... (As I had assumed you were talking about where you were going to rig the 101)

why not set up a cradle mounted winch that goes into the receiver and the put another reciever in the front.

you dont need massive 1000000000000000000LB if your only a little stuck and a set of blocks will let you reeve up to 6:1 quite easily giving you plenty of pull if you need it and the whole thing is nice and light, powering one of them isnt a big deal either.

if you leave me the 101 in the will I'll give you one of my spare tirfors.

The next time I rig up a electric winch on a vehicle i will most likely rig a removable cradle set up that when in use the winch pulls from a anchor point on the vehicle front or rear.......side ways etc and just install anderson plugs for power supply.
I would still carry the winch behind the bull bar as normal the save room carrying it inside and remove it to save weight when it is not needed around town.
This set up would allow easier servicing of the winch and it could be transfered with less trouble to another vehicle when it come time to up date.

In a emergency even a jump starter pack could be used for a short pull.(away from the vehicle)
I am supprized none of the aftermarket blokes have not chased this in any big way.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

a few more than Im going to admit to. (3 questions - fail on poor route selection so no I didnt need to go there and there was no room to turn in one case and the same deal from trusting a packet leader who in hindsight shouldnt have been packet leading for the same reasons a few more times, but at least I had a winch and no trailer those times.)

that said and ignoring the "going up difficult slippery rocky hills basically means you havent paid attention to the 3 questions" thing.

Its a 101 the PTO winch is center mounted and you can run it out front or rear. Its better to set it up for rearwards winching for a few reasons

1. with it out the rear the winch lead is less likely to be damaged from driving into something,

2. If you're in the mud or bogged you will usually have driven in and going out backwards is typically easier than going out forwards.

3. if your pulling something into position to tow it your generally going to tow it from the rear of the vehicle

4. if your pulling something onto a trailer the trailers at the back......

5. (this ones a bit iffy depending on configuration) theres more between you and the winching when winching from the rear if something snaps.

By ignoring the "going up difficult slippery rocky hills" supposedly now means that you haven't paid attention to the 3 questions thing?
But in item no.2 driving into the mud and getting bogged,obviously means the same 3 questions must have been ignored/overlooked!!!!!

You can be pedantic in any direction if you want to try and justify a point that you are making.
There are many tracks around that it is easier to winch forward and proceed further up a hill,than it is to winch backward and possibly put yourself or the vehicle in a dangerous position.
Yes in an ideal world,a winch at both ends would be the best scenario,unfortunately,it isn't an ideal world,and everyone makes decisions based around the normal use that their vehicle gets.
And yes,I would love a 101 and would leave the PTO on the front and fit an electric winch on the rear.
And Gary,I think the easiest fitment on a RRS is mounted to the bullbar on the front,and if you want,then a small electric winch mounted to the tow hitch on the rear,like Dave mentioned would cover all bases.

Warn Industries - Mounting Systems: Multi-Mount Winch Mounting System
http://www.warn.com/atv/mounting-syt...e_system.shtml

Originally Posted by LowRanger

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By ignoring the "going up difficult slippery rocky hills" supposedly now means that you haven't paid attention to the 3 questions thing?
But in item no.2 driving into the mud and getting bogged,obviously means the same 3 questions must have been ignored/overlooked!!!!!

the line about the 3 questions thing was to indicate "Ignoring all else and if your going to have to winch" because if you pay attention to (and get it right all the time (you wont, everyon has snafus)) the 3 questions you wont have to winch unless you count on the winches ability as part of your vehicles capability. Thats fine for a winch-a-thon or Comp Event but not so great if your a trip leader (which accounts for a couple of my ok, so now we've got a major bit of reversing to do) or If you're winch fails.

Going up slippery rocky hills is generally more dangerous to life and limb than driving into a bog hole and 101's are much more adept at going up hills than down them especially when they are empty. heres proof [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHHBn2IK2dE]Forward Control - rearward not so! - YouTube[/ame]

and Im still looking for the vid of the FC101 going tail over down hill and rolling.

The 3 questions are a lot more important when you're risk factors are higher.

did you read the bit about the 101 winch being center mounted? have you heard of the 6 P's

if you're solo (or in a group) and you drive into a Bog hole which way is likely to be the easiest to recover towards? typically its rearwards it also has the added advantage that you know where the firm ground is because you've just been there and you know that there IS firm ground somewhere back there.

how easy is it to rerig a winch thats mostly (or potentially fully) submerged? not very, I'd suggest that you trust me on that but if you like go borrow someones 101, center winch inter or R series W/Winch stick it in till its over the chassis in water and up to the shackles in mud then try to re-reeve the winch

how often is your winch underwater or mud when you're on a rocky surface going up or down a hill? Not often Admitedly It does happen occasionally but then thats when the 6P's come into play.

really smart operators (and I'm not implying anything here) will check what they're about to traverse and rig the vehicle appropriately.