Thread: Synthetic rope question

Originally Posted by uninformed

what I want to know is, who takes their friggin crane 4x4ing in the first place

I've been known to get in with a bit of 4x4, 6x6 8x8 and once 10x10 off road in a crane to get to the site....

They suck when you bog em tho.

I like the open ones, you can slip them into an existing eye and put some whipping around it to hold in place, with the closed one shown you would have to know how to splice. Anyone know how to splice Dyneema type ropes, or can refer to a site with instructions, regards Frank.

theres plenty of it on you tube and splitting hairs your not really splicing it, that stuff works like Japanese finger trap so its not so much a plaiting process

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP74FE4p8to

theres one.

Check out Samson ropes, www.samsonrope.com , , they manufacture dyneema and have great instructions including videos for every type of rope they manufacture. Check out the stuiff on splicing the kernmantle ropes where they cut off and then re-splice the sheath.

When I had mine done L&B Ropes had never done it either so they got the rep out, used my rope and trained and I got to sit in, was a great learning day.

Basically you pass the working end through the standing part, run both ends parallel a short distance (a ratio of the diameter and maybe eye size by memory) and then pass the standing part through the working end, a lot of rope to pull through but means the working end cannot pull out without turning the rope inside out. Then leave another short parallel length and insert the working end into the standing part, but there is allowance for tapering the tail down (4 strands at a time I think) to a nice tapered lead.

You can also do this without access to the end of the standing part but it's harder to do and remember and is harder on the rope. I'll try to get some pics of mine but need to get the winch fixed first (thanks to elecs burning out the motor).

Note; The video above is showing making a soft shackle, the tow ends are effectively tied together by a diamond knot so while it does simply pass down the centre and is held by the tightening of the outer braid, it cannot pull out anyway. The rep demonstrated on the test bed that dyneema will pull out of itself if it's done this simply. Both the working end and standing part need to cross each other at least once. Cheaper braided nylons will slip easier than genuine dyneema.

The diamond knot, which I'm trying to master, can be made even better by unbraiding the two lines and rebraiding them into each other as you would a traditional splice so creating two strands as before, each comprised of half of the other and then tying the diamond knot.

Here's an excerpt from a safety notice re a sling failure:

A damaged polyester sling was discovered during a routine safety audit in the SA. The label indicated "If red core yarns are visible remove the sling from service". Upon further inspection, the red core warning yarn was not present.

Hmmm

FWIW and reference - I just took off the wire cable and winch rollers, and replaced them with 30m of 10mm dyneema and aluminium offset hawse. The total weight saving was 11.5kg. Well worth the ~ $200.
Cheers,
Rob

Originally Posted by jonesy63

FWIW and reference - I just took off the wire cable and winch rollers, and replaced them with 30m of 10mm dyneema and aluminium offset hawse. The total weight saving was 11.5kg. Well worth the ~ $200.
Cheers,
Rob

where did your rope come from..........after having to use my winch last friday on and off for 3 hrs with two diferent 2 to 1 set ups...the weight didn't bother it was the kinks and the wire going loose on the drum between pulls that was annoying

Hi Weeds,
I got the rope from this place on eBay:
NEW Dyneema Winch Rope SK75 Synthetic Cable 10mm X 30M 4WD Recovery Offroad Warn | eBay

Came with protector at the drum end (for heat), as well as the loop end (for rocks).

Also got the offset hawse that was mentioned earlier in this thread.

Cheers,
Rob