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It may end up being a frequent exercise. It depends on how long we plan to stay at one campsite. The idea is that we can detach the canopy and tent to make use of the vehicle without much fuss.Quote:
Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton
When the jack is being employed, the ute will be under the canopy at all times so as long as you keep fingers clear, I feel the risk of the load dropping off and causing injury is limited
i think that should be fine then if you have lift points on the side and do one at a time.
It shouldn't tip as you wont need to lift it much higher then the ute.
just make sure you have a piece of wood or a stand underneath the hilift jack.
and be careful not to twist it.
how high is the tray on your ute?
If you can weld, or get someone to do it for you, you could get four side wind jockey wheels similar to the ones shown in the link. cut off the wheel. weld on a suitable length of tube with a foot plate, then cobble up a mounting back to the canopy. A bit of a project, safer and cheaper.
Al Wilson and Sons - Australia's Leading Online Agricultural and Transport Equipment Retailer
Don
Good question - anyone with a Defender 130 tray who could measure the height ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton
I'm putting the cart before the horse by purchasing a canopy before I've bought the vehicle!
I'm in the market for a 130 dual-cab defender and before I could buy one, this canopy came up on eBay. I figured I'd need a canopy as soon as I have the defender so I snapped his one up.
that is a good idea, maybe try a scrappie for them.
Definitely a good idea, I had been looking into this with my fabricator. My concern is the whole structure becoming unstable (rocking). We will be sleeping on top of the canopy and I want to eliminate as much as possible any loose play.Quote:
Originally Posted by nod 130
Think outside the square .....Quote:
Originally Posted by iClick
Make 4 tube legs that fit into 1 square lug on the 4 corners (of the bottom) of the tray back camper .... They must be installed at the sides of the camper so as to clear the sides of the trailer .....
Make the legs 200mm longer than the height of the trailer
On the trailer ...
Wind the jockey wheel down >>> fit the rear 2 legs
Wind the jockey wheel all the way up >>> Fit the front 2 legs
Wind the jockey wheel level >>>> A gap is now between the trailer and the tray back camper
Now just remove the trailer out from under it
Simple, secure n safe .... :)
..... Just seen that your putting it on the 130 tray back .... Disregard the above then ... . Good info for trailer user's tho
nod 130 has the good idea ...
Cheers
Mike
G'day. A hilift if used safely isn't a problem for this application. If you want to think outside the square for the ute, what about the legs mentioned above and a system that attaches to the rear axle like a spare wheel winch, to compress the suspension?
Dave.
I might be the odd one out on this topic. Love my highlift jack-
Pros- changing 18 inch ATs to 17 inch Muddies takes under 30 minutes.
negatives- lift points on disco 3s and 4s are a little hard to find. My Rock sliders work to a point but tend to lift half the car potentialy overloading the jack. ARB bull bar lift points are to centred and give the same possible issue and stablity is a problem if lifting from them!
Get at least 1.5 tonne (mine is 1.5 and I would like a bit more:)). Forget the ebay cheapies and get a good quality one. Discussed at http://www.aulro.com/afvb/recovery/1...lift-jack.html