Bow Shackles

Seems a little lost in my transtlation, or lack of words. I ment recovery points either mounted to front bullbar, or rear bar/cross member, in line with chassis rail. So not lower than.

plenty of holes, bobs, uneven ground where if, winching the angle of cable/rope changes during the recovery and puts either upward or downward force on the rope....whether this is as much angle change as when the single bow shackle is used in a horizontal hole........only each individual recovery could tell that.

What I ment was using 2 shackles, 2 recovery points, which would be approx 800mm apart as chassis rails are, a long cable say 3m joined at each and using a snatch block pulley on this cable then the recovery vehicle attaches to this block. this would allow angle change between stuck and recovering vehicle and help share the load down both sides of the chassis.

either way, even if you rotate the recovery points so they are now vertical holes, this must be better than using just one point?

There was a company (yi-can???) that was recommending bridals hooked up to the axle, via radius arm bolts or trailing arm bolts and using this as a recovery point. Saying that it would pull the vehicle up and out of bogs, rather than pulling the chassis and having the axles wanting to drive down into the bog untill maxed out....

Tank, can you suggest any suppliers of rated collard or swivel bolts/recovery point tha could be adapted to our use?

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Originally Posted by uninformed

Tank, can you suggest any suppliers of rated collard or swivel bolts/recovery point tha could be adapted to our use?

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Google up "Rigging Supliers", been years since I bought rigging gear, used to be Blackwoods was the place to go in Alexandria Sydney, but last time I drove through Alexandria it was all high rise Yuppie flats, go figure, as I have no idea of where you live, could also suggest if you live in the country to try Farm machinery/hardware retailers, Regards Frank.

LB wire ropes in Girraween NSW have a great selection of stuff and are well priced. They'll make steel slings (crimped or spliced) and since I turned up a couple of years back with dyneema and asked them to splice a new hook on and they hadn't dealt with it before they researched and found a tech rep to come out and train, and even asked me out as well. They are also looking at manufacturing dyneema products such as slings etc.

They also have a test bed setup for static and dynamic testing.

Working in the mines means you have to sit a 4x4 course, and I did mine recently. Went in with the 'huh, this'll b a laugh', and 'been doing it for years, is there more to learn?' attitude. I came out having learnt several things. Some good, some bad. The bad things I learnt are how many people don't inspect their recovery points before attaching another vehicle and heading off at wharp speed... On a previous course a week before mine, when demonstrating a 'snatch recovery' 'they' hand managed to remove the decent cast hook, the 2 bolts attaching it, and the piece of plate that was welded to the chassis from the 'dead vehicle' and imbed it in the back of the aluminium tradie box on the back of the tow vehicle... This surprised me as I was always taught that if the recovery points are not bolted direct to the chassis using at least two high tensile M16 or larger bolts, don't snatch off them! Someone didn't check did they!!! I'm also surprised at the lack of stretch in the supplied 'snatch straps' available here... A max of 20% stretch... I'm used to using KERR ropes (hence earlier post about Kinetic Energy Rope Recovery rope supliers in Australia) with at least 40% if not 50% stretch, which means you can utilise the tow vehicles weight and torque rather than the heavy snatch I've seen here.. The two good things I've learnt is that 1. If a tow bar assembly has the 50mm box section outlet painted yellow it is snatch rated. (This is to be confirmed by the plate welded to the frame, and the use of 10.9 or higher grade bolts affixing it to the chassis). This means that the tow ball section can be removed, and the loop of the snatch strap slid into the receiver and the locking pin refitted. The other thing I've learnt is the grades and ratings of shackles (inc colours). It transpires my UK rated shackles I've used for years are not suitable! I've attached a pic of shackle ratings and colours that might be of use. 'bubba' ropes are worth checking out on YouTube as well.. Cheers.

These blokes have some interesting gear. have a look at their 'lifting and lashing point catalogue'

http://www.rud.com/en-au/products/li...2a9afce22.html


Don

Really interesting thread that has answered a few questions, so thanks to those far more knowledgeable than me for contributing.

I'm trying to do the right thing by setting my Disco up with the pieces I need to recover as safely as possible should the need arise, eg winch bar and, based on research on this site, 'rated' recovery points.

There are some points in the catalogue that nod_130 posted that would seem to satisfy some of the problems regarding force distribution AND that would satisfy the AS for their application. When matched to appropriate fixings this would seem to ensure the load point is not the weak link.

Is there a precedent for the use of this kind of industrial gear in recreational 4x4 recovery?

I saw the rotating RUD eye bolts a while back and thought they'd be great but was advised that they couldn't recommend them. They aren't rated that highly have issues in cruddy conditions with seizing.

I just use some 6.5T bow shackles, which are differently colored to the chart above but are rated and eye bolts rated higher. I spoke to xrox about their bar as it's drilled for smaller eyebolts than I have but is plated behind and they have no issue drilling it out up to 1.1/8" for larger eyebolts. They just do it that size as it's the size for the most common sold in 4WD stores (3T). I also use a spanset endless sling (20T) as a equaliser between the eyes, long enough to get the correct minimum angle between them to maintain the rating on the points, and to stop the shackles twisting too far in the eyes.

The weld on points are great looking things too but rely on good parent material which can't be satisfied by the bar plus even better welding than we could probably afford.

Good info - my xrox is being fabricated as we speak!

This would seem to go against the conventional wisdom of not recovering from a bull bar though?

I also asked that and they said that they are fine with it. If the cans stretch just contact and they'll replace. I'm looking at a system to tie the back of the eye bolts using a c section bracket behind the nut and a custom small cable looped back to the mounting bolts. This would allow crush with the flex in the cable but should stop stretch as it's tight.