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Thread: Tire deflator - which one to get

  1. #31
    AndyG's Avatar
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    Refreshing an old thread, just ot show i did some research.

    Hi,
    Currently my tyre deflator is a 3 inch nail found on the Birdsville track by the side of the road. Thinking of upgrading, although it works quite well and has not worn out .

    Considerations, I use Tyre Dog TMPS permanently fitted when touring, i dont really like the idea of removing the valve if i understand how ARB works?

    Back in 2009 it appeared to be a Staun vs ARB battle of opinions, has anything changed?
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

  2. #32
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    Aren't the Tyre Dog sensors a replacement for the valve caps - in which case you have to remove them to deflate the tyres no matter which type of deflator you use (even your three inch nail).

    Deflating the tyre by removing the valve centre (as with the AR is much more efficient and quicker than using a nail.

    I use an ARB deflator - it lives in the case with my air compressor.

    The Stauns are very good too (my young bloke has a set). Well made and robust and come in a good storage pouch as others have said on here. Only issue with them is that they are really only suitable for one pre-set pressure. You can change the pre-set pressure on them, but it's a pain. Best option with the Stauns if you want to have a couple of different pressures that you deflate to - set two of the Stauns at each of the different pressures and mark them so that you know the difference. When using them, only deflate two wheels at a time using the deflators set at the pressure you want.

    I also have a TPMS on mine - but the sensors are not on the valves, so I don't have to remove anything but the valve cap. My sensors are inside the wheel rim, strapped to the centre of the rim itself, so not visible from outside and unable to be nicked or tampered with. System purchased from Landybitz on here and works well for me.
    Cheers .........

    BMKAL


  3. #33
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    I had a Staun many years ago when I changed to the ARB type. I loaned it to my boss on Blacksmiths one day and never got it back. Typical.

    I find the ARB type to be quicker, particularly when you have 6 tyres for your camper trailer as well as the car.
    I have had no problem with mine except that sometimes the O ring does not stop the outer screw from blowing out the top. You just have to be careful when you undo the valve core and then pull up the outer piece.

    The other potential problem is if you think you have screwed the valve core back in and you haven't and it propels itself out into the sand. Good luck finding it , so carry a couple of extra valve cores. I haven't done it but loaned my deflator to another who did. On second thought I think it happened after he had unscrewed the core then pulled up too hard on the centre, and it popped out.

  4. #34
    AndyG's Avatar
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    Do the Staun live in the valve stem or only during the deflation process, that was my concern in relation to the TPMS.

    The ARB approach, lends itself to introducing grit into the value and or losing the guts of the valve ?

    I supposing i am looking for a solution that keeps the valve assembly intact, oh like a 3" nail. With a pressure gauge attached.
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

  5. #35
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    The ARB approach, lends itself to introducing grit into the value and or losing the guts of the valve ?
    NO
    The valve core stays in the ARB unless you are a Klutz.

    Never had a problem and have used it dozens if not scores of times.

    Only other issue is if in heat of moment you don't tighten the core enough and it will leak. I did this once only and quickly rectified it. You have to be careful to not use brute force on the core to tighten it or you could have trouble , but for a normally intelligent person, it is not a problem.
    Regards Philip A

  6. #36
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    I use this:



    and a tyre gauge. Yes I'm cheap, but not the slowest at letting the tyres down.

    Jeff


  7. #37
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    I use the stauns which bleed the tyres down at the same time, its just fast. I then finalise the pressures using a race car pressure gauge that bleeds the air off when you press a button until they are down to whatever pressure the day needs. Each product and system has its merits - I'm sure you'll look at one of them and just like it.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  8. #38
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    I've used the ARB one for years. Works great Done in a couple of minutes. Choose the right pressure for the conditions.

  9. #39
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    I've got both as well and the ARB type (Mean Green or some obscure brand - free with a non-related purchase) is only a fraction slower than the Staun deflators with the added benefit to stop at whatever pressure you like..

    On the beach I use the Stauns (about 18 Psi) and in the hills I use the Green thing, because I look at the terrain and pick a pressure I guess might be best.

    The ARB arrangement now costs about $80, so you're not far off the price of the Stauns in any case...

    Used the nail and gauge method for years before I had money to spent on frivolous toys!

    Cheers,

    Lou

  10. #40
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    Bought an ARB ezdeflator couple if weeks ago, was only 45 bucks, had stauns before that, the arb job ****s all over the stauns.

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