Thread: Is this recovery point strong enough?

Umm - the standard defender jacking point is in the chassis, that is some piece of pipe welded onto the bullbar.

The dimensions would help us make a more informed decision, but I don't like the look of it. The padlock has a brass body, and the tube seems thin walled...

Doesn't look very strong to me, thin tube, only a single piece of flat bar vertically. I would recommend no vigorous snatching, especially at an angle. I would fit 2 eyebolts near in line with the chassis bracket, and check the security of the bar-to chassis bolts and welding around the whole area.

Originally Posted by DeeJay

I think a snatch strap would break before this failed, but I really have no idea.
Does anybody see any faults?
Its a high tensile chain going through the standard defender jacking point & I used a radius arm washer & standard padlock. I used the wrong lock & dont have a key
The washer is filed out to fit the link.
Your thoughts appreciated..

I don't think you should trust it.

Ah yeah...like the others said. I wouldnt want to rely on it.

It may stand up for a while, but recovery points should be dead reliable...all the time...everytime! Spend the $50 bucks and get something properly rated.

Angus

Dee Jay, Chain has NO place in a snatch type recovery, Chain is not desingned for the types of loads imposed by snatching.
The correct system would be to have a section of 1/2" plate with a hole through the centre tapped and threaded with a nut (same Thread) welded on the back, welded into the ends of the chassis rails, A hole throught the bullbar to match with a suitably rated SWL/WLL Collared Eye Bolt bolted into the hole, making sure that the hole in the eye bolt is vertical to allow the shackle to swivel side to side. If you have the pin hole horizontal, as most manufacturers seem to do you will place undue stress on the shackle body and pin when you are pulling/snatching off the dead straight ahead line. Shackles are NOT designed to be used in any other line than dead straight ahead, Regards Frank.

The mounting point and chain have already been covered but I'm surprised no one has commented on the lock. A decent hit with a 4lb hammer will probably be sufficient to see it pop open let alone an 8000lb snatch.
For similar reasons, you shouldn't use locks in place of shackles on trailer safety chains either.

I'd be looking around at what others have souuested/done and then put the thinking cap on again.

Ah well, it seems another idea is called for, I'm trying to minimize mods to this vehicle as, once I start, there is no end.
I'll just keep this under the seat & use it for wheel changing. Maybe cut a longer section.
I'm confused why the padlock even comes into the equation, its got a hardened shank which takes the load, the lock body is nothing at all to do with the stresses, but I'll use a high tensile bolt for lifting as its simpler & lighter.
I looked up 10mm hercalloy chain SWL & its only 3.2 tonne

Hardened is not exactly the same as toughened. Padlocks are made to resist cutting rather than shock loads. I would find a certified eye bolt as mentioned below, should be rated to more than the breaking strain of the snatch strap, so about 10 tonnes at least.