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Thread: An easy way to bleed your 80" brakes

  1. #1
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    An easy way to bleed your 80" brakes

    Buy one of the cheap garden sprayers ...... some plastic tubing .. a short length of 1/4" brake pipe and the top from a can .

    I found the top from a can of glue would fit onto the brake fluid reservoir . I drilled a hole and soldered a short length of the pipe ( about 3" ) through the lid. Push the hose onto the lid and screw it down onto the fluid resrvoir ( you can make a cork gasket if needed ) ..connect the other end onto the garden sprayer outlet ... you only need about 5 psi .. give it 4 or 5 pumps .

    Fill the reservoir with brake fliud .. go around in turn and undo each bleed screw . I found it best to do the front wheels first , then the back . MAke sure you givea few pumps between wheels .

    MIKE

  2. #2
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    Hi Mike

    Useful info, in the old days they always said that one should bleed the longest pipe first and work around to the shortest one. If your method works - do it!

    Nick

  3. #3
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    Hi there

    Another simular way

    I found the top from a can of glue would fit onto the brake fluid reservoir . I drilled a hole and soldered a short length of the pipe ( about 3" ) through the lid. Push the hose onto the lid and screw it down onto the fluid resrvoir

    Fill the reservoir with brake fliud .. go around in turn and undo each bleed screw
    I do the same thing with most of my land rovers/restorations - find a screw top then drill a hole and fit a tubles car valve (tit), and appply a slight bit of pressure using the kids bike pump. Inturn this pressure pushes the fluid to flow through each wheel cylinder.

    But remember not to much pressure - can cause additional problems.

    All the best

    Wayne

  4. #4
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    My setup was a combination of Mike and Wayne's method and another - we used the bike pump setup - HoHar had a perfect lid with the valve - but we also attached the line to the engine vacuum line (between distributor and carby) to provide additional "suck". Works great and pulls all the air out from kink spots in the metal lines.
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  5. #5
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    Yep as scallops has said vacuum from the engine works a treat.... put a long hose on said pipe into a lid of a jam jar (any type of jar) and another short length coming out put on the bleed screw and rev the engine and the brake fluid gets sucked through and this system works for all series vehicles

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  6. #6
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    When I installed new lines on my 80", I picked up the front of the vehicle and had it two feet in the air. I tried the air pressure method, but there was still a bubble of air somewhere in the system that refused to move. I used the original larger diameter of pipe on my 80", not the smaller diameter that is used on SII and later vehicles. One of the problems with the larger diameter pipes, is that a bubble of air can get trapped, and not be drawn by the fluid passing by it.
    Aaron.

  7. #7
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    bleeding

    What I did was : after I pressurised the system , I connected a 1 metre length of plastic tube over the bleed screw, hold the end of the tube above your head , higher the better.... air will go upwards easily , undo the bleed screw and watch for the fluid to come out, as it reaches the end of the tube, close your thumb over the end, close off the bleed screw.. do this twice for each cylinder . It works well.
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  8. #8
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    Mike your a bloody Genius and you too Scallops ......! so many clever people on AULRO!

    on my series 2a 109 i used a big syringe filled that with BF and plunged it while i had someone pumping the pedal, i did undo the output pipe nut that is connected to the Master Cylinder to rid any air bubbles. i started from the rear left hub & worked my way from longest pipe to shortest. all worked well.

    i'ss take a pic of my home made pressre bleeder thingy!

    cheers,

    Chris

  9. #9
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    more stuff

    Chris

    have a look at this too

    Brakes - all you need to know and more...

  10. #10
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    that is very helpful bit of info there!
    thanks, Chris

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