Thread: Cracks in Hardtops

I have the same problem. Latest option I am looking at is stuff called 'Lumiweld' - a sort of low-melting point hard solder for alloy.

I have seen demonstrations at shows where a bloke 'welds' aluminium drink cans together. The product itself can be bought on UK ebay.

From what I can work out, the crack/joint to be welded is cleaned with a brass or stainless wire brush, heated with a cool flame and then the lumiweld wire is laid in and heated til it melts into the join. The melt temp of the is far lower than that of the alloy.

A mate gave me a few bits to experiment with but haven't done so yet. Would be keen to know if anyone else here has.

Cheers

D

Similar stuff is also available at tool suppliers locally, have seen it a Fisher Discounts in Canberra but havent had cause to try it (yet) although I do have a series 1 door with a bullet hole in it that needs fixing with something better than the bog that's in it now.

Regards,
Tote

The metal in the crack spot is very thin and would take an artisan to weld it - warpage would be an issue - also heat treating the metal to prevent subsequent metal fatigue would be important.

As I am not sure welding would be a long term solution, I was thinking along the lines of making of making an internal reinforcing plate that was glued in place with a glue like sikaflex and using invisible rivets to ensure the lot stays in place - this would allow a bit of movement but maintain watertight integrity. I think that with welding the crack would just come back or moce to another spot. Also, except for the guy at the shows I have not actually found anyone who can actually use those rods on very thin sheet metal and do a good job.

Cheers

Garry

I agree with Garry. I do not have this problem, but I would also be inclined to make a patch, and glue and rivet it in place (preferably using countersunk solid rivets). The important points would be to to have the patch an accurate fit, to have smooth and tapered edges, with no sharp corners, and to use a patch no thicker than the material being repaired. Start by drilling a stop hole about 3mm diameter at each end of the crack.

John

I can't see a problem with TIG welding......
No different to any other panel repair on a Land Rover........

Originally Posted by groucho

I can't see a problem with TIG welding......
No different to any other panel repair on a Land Rover........

As it is a fatigue crack it will most like just crack again - noting the metal is very thin where it has been stretched to form the crease in the hardtop on one top and on the other it has fatigued a little further back.

The first pic is the basic hardtop with the crack in the crease. The second pic is the station wagon hardtop - the crack is between the crease and the alpine window - I expect the weight of the tropical roof has caused this crack - it bolts to the roof at the top of the pic.

Maybe welding with a Tig and also welding in a reinforcement plate on the inside might be the go.

Cheers

Garry

I use pop rivets and Araldite.
It held a 38 ft mast together on our yacht. Two long joins full lenght.
When I stretched my 110 to a 120 I made an extra cab out of it 20 yrs ago and used this method for the roof. Still use it for all patching jobs.
1/8 " countersunk rivets, when set grind off all ends etc and bog flush.
No problems.

A Daggy repair, Both sides i might add.