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Thread: Help please

  1. #11
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    Haven't seen the S1,or the manual,but the pully is usually pressed on the shaft.I presume the new pump does not have the pully on it?
    Best then would be to unbolt the pump & then use pullers to remove pully.It will then have to be carefully pressed onto the new shaft,taking note of how far it went on the old pump before it is removed.

    I have got a full set of pullers if you need them,& a brother with the genuine workshop manual for the '56 S1.PM me if you need either.

    Good luck

  2. #12
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    with the pump removed I usually just support the pulley on 2 decent tyre levers sitting on blocks of wood then hit the nose with a rubber mallet.

    spray lube and a little heat help as well.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  3. #13
    clean32 is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    OOHHII you got this thing done yet? its been 5 hours

  4. #14
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    Muppet Mechanics 101 by Scallops

    Fellas - thanks for the tips - the old screwdriver each side got the fan pulley off.

    Now to the rest of it - after 1.5 days of solid effort - I still haven't managed to get this finished!

    But I'm almost there (I think) - and it wasn't entirely my fault that progress has ground to a halt. I have refitted the new pump, and was trying to replace the fan assembly - but the new pump has 6mm metric threads in the 4 holes on the water pump end that go into the fan pullet assembly.

    So I need to get 4 metric bolts of the same length. Totally ****ed me off - they said it was a genuine part.

    But worse - it meant I didn't finish and retain the tag of dope mechanic 2010.

    Still - at least the new pump is fitted - so once the fan is fitted, I have the thermostat to put in the housing, refit the fan belt, readjust the dynamo - and I'll be done.

    Thanks for the earlier heads up everyone - I can always rely on you guys.
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  5. #15
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    Great to see it sorted...ready for the BIG run on Saturday

    Mrs hh
    Series Landy Rescue

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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scallops View Post
    ... but the new pump has 6mm metric threads in the 4 holes on the water pump end that go into the fan pullet assembly.

    So I need to get 4 metric bolts of the same length. Totally ****ed me off - they said it was a genuine part.
    The same thing happened to me so I drilled them to the correct tapping size and put a BSF thread in the holes. The fasteners they expected me to use were too small a diameter anyway, compared to the old ones and the hole sizes in the pulley and fan, so it is worth checking them before you press on, otherwise the fan and pulley will rattle about.

    It didn't end there, however, because the two holes in the flange face where the steel inlet pipe connects, were also the wrong thread! I had to use whatever thread they were as they were too large to re-tap.

    The outside of the casting had to be ground down a bit as well so that it didn't foul the timing case. Why would anyone go to the trouble of making a pump and supply it with three easily rectifiable (in the factory) manufacturing faults?

    I remember thinking at the time - thank God I am not stranded on the Nullabor waiting for a new pump and then have this un-fittable monstrosity turn up!

  7. #17
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    pump

    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    The same thing happened to me so I drilled them to the correct tapping size and put a BSF thread in the holes. The fasteners they expected me to use were too small a diameter anyway, compared to the old ones and the hole sizes in the pulley and fan, so it is worth checking them before you press on, otherwise the fan and pulley will rattle about.

    It didn't end there, however, because the two holes in the flange face where the steel inlet pipe connects, were also the wrong thread! I had to use whatever thread they were as they were too large to re-tap.

    The outside of the casting had to be ground down a bit as well so that it didn't foul the timing case. Why would anyone go to the trouble of making a pump and supply it with three easily rectifiable (in the factory) manufacturing faults?

    I remember thinking at the time - thank God I am not stranded on the Nullabor waiting for a new pump and then have this un-fittable monstrosity turn up!
    hi thats why a fully recondition orignal pump is the way to go new pumps leave a lot to be desired jim

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    The same thing happened to me so I drilled them to the correct tapping size and put a BSF thread in the holes. The fasteners they expected me to use were too small a diameter anyway, compared to the old ones and the hole sizes in the pulley and fan, so it is worth checking them before you press on, otherwise the fan and pulley will rattle about.

    It didn't end there, however, because the two holes in the flange face where the steel inlet pipe connects, were also the wrong thread! I had to use whatever thread they were as they were too large to re-tap.

    The outside of the casting had to be ground down a bit as well so that it didn't foul the timing case. Why would anyone go to the trouble of making a pump and supply it with three easily rectifiable (in the factory) manufacturing faults?

    I remember thinking at the time - thank God I am not stranded on the Nullabor waiting for a new pump and then have this un-fittable monstrosity turn up!
    Yeah - I had to file the base on my pump too - same issue - but the inlet pipe threads are right on mine, (I've refitted the inlet pipe) so I guess that's one win.
    2007 Defender 110
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  9. #19
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    water pump

    Hmm

    You didn't mention if you have a alloy or cast iron housing . I've rebuilt two of the alloy type , it worked out very well. Only cost about $30 in parts and a few hours stuffing around . Now I have a lathe making the seal adapter sleeve is a breeze .

    I posted some pics on this forum , maybe do a search for it ?

    MIKE

  10. #20
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    pics

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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