The Water pump debacle thread

[Scallops]

Don't need luck it'll be sorted in a flash.

My 110 is still sitting down the back waiting for a gearbox. And I think it's been waiting since before the water pump debacle.

I'm aiming for Christmas.

We can start this job on Dec 12!

[85 county]

Well - Killer came around last night with a plastic bag which I'm hoping can put and end to the 7 week epic that has become me replacing a water pump - although, I am the last person to assume that this might actually be the case!

I have the helicoils and tools to install them - plus a new set of 6mm bolts to attach the pump. According to Mick - one bolt is slightly too long and might need to be hacksawed to length.

Wish me luck!

Are you going to put 6mm helicoils into 1/4 imperial?

with the drilling size of the helicoils i would strongly recommend that you just size up the imperial. Adding metric to the mix is a bit un-kosha plus helicoils can introduce problems of there own and should really be regarded as a very last resort. lastly putting some yahoo alloy into the mix is not so comfortable either.

[Blknight.aus]

Are you going to put 6mm helicoils into 1/4 imperial?

Adding metric to the mix is a bit un-kosha

this on a type of vehicle that can and often does have UNC/UNF metric BSF, BSW and BSP on one major sub assembly...


I had assumed that the bearing setup that was in the replacement kit was one of the presealed cassette bearing type replacements and I didnt get a chance to check the preload on the shaft prior to assembly. If it is just the seal bedding as killer suggests then it'll only take about a minute on a drill in a bucket of water to sort itself and its all stations go.

Dont stress the helicoiling they'll be fine.

[Scallops]

The last two posts - as Manuel says, Que??

[toad]

Hi,
to fix my stuffed mounting points I went and got 1/4" BSF helicoils and fixed the thread back to std and then got BSF bolts!! All readily available at the local bearing service and bolt bloke.

[Timj]

According to Mick - one bolt is slightly too long and might need to be hacksawed to length.

Hi Dan,

Just a word of warning with this if Mick has not already told you . Before hacksawing a bolt to length make sure you have a nut already on there as you can then undo the nut and it will straighten out the threads for you. If you don't have a nut on there then the threads get hacksawed a bit out of whack and you then can't get a nut on or get it into a threaded hole.

Hope it all goes well .

TimJ.

[Blknight.aus]

The last two posts - as Manuel says, Que??

6mm standard pitch (.75mm per thread from memory) is as near as damnit to one of the 1/4 inch threads (unc again, from memory) they are so close that if you were to wind one into the other you need to engage more than about 15mm of thread before the difference becomes noticable due to binding on the threads and even then if you were using a big enough spanner you probabley wouldnt notice it. I think what is trying to be said is that instead of opting to run a metric bolt you should redo it in imperial, basically I agree. not because of any super technical reason but based on the fact that I know that in the little dinky kit of tools you have in matilda you have the right size spanner to appropriately deal with imperial nuts and bolts.

my post was aimed at the fact that on some landies (series IIs and IIIs mainly) on some components like the engine you can find metric bolts, imperial bolts and british bolts along with a couple of bits that run british standard pipe threads.

the bit about the pump was aimed at killer, and having put the thing up on my magnetic pickup stethescope it does sound like seal wipe noise as opposed to bearing stuck noise, Hopefuly Ifg I get time to night I will run the thing up in a bucket of water for you.


Howd you go getting the shroud and the radiator bolt plates made?

[Scallops]

Howd you go getting the shroud and the radiator bolt plates made?

Haven't had a chance to even think about it - Saturday and Sunday is my only real chance to spend time on this. Do you recommend anyone? Maybe it's easier this time to just redo the nuts and bolts as they are?

[Blknight.aus]

the shroud may be a bit harder to do put an ask up on the forum for a panel beater or sheet metal worker, brian hejlm might know someone who can help with that. As for the nut strip its just a bit of flat bar with holes drilled in it to suit the radiator spacing and then nuts welded on or the bar tapped to the thread of the bolts your going to use.

If you can make it tonight with the radiator and the hoses I can possibly make up the bars for you, preflush the radiator and you could probably pick up the pump. (I suspect you may need that bit to keep the coolant in and make the cooling system work properly. But dont quote me on it)

[numpty]

6mm standard pitch (.75mm per thread from memory) is as near as damnit to one of the 1/4 inch threads (unc again, from memory) they are so close that if you were to wind one into the other you need to engage more than about 15mm of thread before the difference becomes noticable due to binding on the threads and even then if you were using a big enough spanner you probabley wouldnt notice it. I think what is trying to be said is that instead of opting to run a metric bolt you should redo it in imperial, basically I agree. not because of any super technical reason but based on the fact that I know that in the little dinky kit of tools you have in matilda you have the right size spanner to appropriately deal with imperial nuts and bolts.

my post was aimed at the fact that on some landies (series IIs and IIIs mainly) on some components like the engine you can find metric bolts, imperial bolts and british bolts along with a couple of bits that run british standard pipe threads.

the bit about the pump was aimed at killer, and having put the thing up on my magnetic pickup stethescope it does sound like seal wipe noise as opposed to bearing stuck noise, Hopefuly Ifg I get time to night I will run the thing up in a bucket of water for you.


Howd you go getting the shroud and the radiator bolt plates made?

Except that the OD is wrong.

1/4 " is 6.35 mm. Therefore a 6mm thread is .013" smaller in diameter.

Agree re the pitch, but that's not the issue.