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Thread: Here we go - 1955 resto

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyallthecrocodile View Post
    not sure about the colour either. the standard green is classic but have been surfing for pics of other options. i already have a new set of seats and the darker canvas hood (from john craddock) so will have to match the seats at least.
    Most of the basic swbs in Aust will have been Bronze Green. Exceptions would have been LWB and Station wagons which most were grey.

    There are exceptions of course (company/govt colours) but Bronze Green would not be far wrong if you want an original colour.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Port Willunga, South Australia
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    Was at my local tyre dealer today chasing up the possibility of locating/importing some RTM's when we noticed that one of my rims has 5 extra holes. Perhaps a mod to fit some other vehicle? any thoughts? Also anyone know of a source for 7.00 x 16 RTM's especially close to Adelaide. Hope to get further with the stripping down tomorrow.
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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Port Willunga, South Australia
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    Well got a bit done this arvo. Stripped out the wiring, brake lines and all the fiddly small stuff still attached to the chassis (thanks god for thin grinding discs)! Think its about time to see how he/she? runs, then tackle the engine, gearbox and sundries. Feels a bit ominous pulling it all down, a bit worried about getting it all back together without missing anything! anywho, here are some pics of the old firewall and the recond one, plus the rust in the rear chassis member, an average tailgate and the engine. just wondering whether the engine number should be the same as the chassis? chassis no. is 57162807 and the number on the block is 57115308. Also am trying to locate some RTM's 7.00 x 16's, does anyone know of an importer who's already used to getting them for forum members or is it best to find my own supplier in adelaide? cheers lyall.
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  4. #14
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    Feb 2009
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    Engine is a 55 one so probably the original
    Its good to see another series one being brought back to life
    Looking forward to seeing the final incarnation, best of luck

    Wardy

  5. #15
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    Dec 2006
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    That rim is interesting. Do the off side holes fit to the hub?

    Easo

  6. #16
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Looks like a replacement steering wheel might be in order.

    I chickend out of stripping the whole thing down, no room and would certainly have lost stuff. But I do envy the people who have the room and patience to do a complete strip down, repair and paint as it all goes back together.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Port Willunga, South Australia
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    WOOHOO!! She? runs. Ran some temporary wires, filed the points, plastic fuel tank, dodgied up the exhaust and presto. Sounded great, no smoke. currently has a holley that leaks fuel everywhere (complete with hole in the bonnet for the air filter), but it runs none the less. Was a bit late to keep it running, but will test out gearbox etc tomorrow while its up on the stands.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Port Willunga, South Australia
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    Hmmm, no luck with the holley so stuck a solex on there but it (the carb) needs various bits and peices not sure whether to persevere with testing out the mechanicals or continue stripping it? might give the carb a bit more of a tweak otherwise will worry about it on the bench later. i dont really want to do a full motor gearbox diff etc rebuild at first if its not needed yet, but dont want to get it all together later and find that it has basic problems. what have others done when they are unsure of the mechanicals? find out prior to resto, go the whole hog and rebuild everything (funds will slow the process down a lot) or a bit of a mix of the two? anyhow keen for suggestions from those with experience. i've been told that it drives but it wasnt really in a state to drive when i got it. cheers lyall

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Rosevale, Qld (south of the 'Switch)
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    I can't speak from a full resto experience but if my rangie's anything to go by, if your '55's been sitting around for a while unused, then I'd be going through and replacing all seals before putting it back together. I fix one on the Rangie and everything's hunky dory for a few hundred kms then another seal springs a leak.....
    Cheers,
    Stu

    1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
    2 x 1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover
    1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project

    Who wants another politician as Head of State? Not me:
    http://www.monarchist.org.au/

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    The plan for my 55 86 is to strip it right down to bare chassis, fix the rusty bits, then put it all back together, replacing all seals, rubber and wire as I go. Engine runs fine, but compression a bit low, so will take the head off and get someone who knows what they're doing to have a look.

    I only get a couple of hours on this each week (between work, kids, all the other projects, etc) but try to knock off a little job each time. It's going to take ages, but I'm down to the chassis now and have learned heaps along the way. Lots of little bags of broken bolts, all carefully labelled.

    Have found most things I need so far on ebay and online. If you have time, you can save money by knowing what you need and searching or waiting for it to turn up. The web is great for this.

    And make sure you have a proper workshop manual and parts catalogue. $100 spent on these up front is well worth the investment, I have found.

    Hope this helps - good luck with yours

    D

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