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Thread: Series 1 noises, smells & fun!

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    Series 1 noises, smells & fun!

    Folks - had some real fun this weekend gone. Kat and I took Matilda away to the Border Ranges to camp, which was the first time we have really gone any real distance and used the little truck for camping. Tea always tastes better served off a Series 1 tailgate.



    It was really lovely. I was very aware of the vehicle during this drive - perhaps a little over anxious; the last time I had an issue - the infamous water pump debacle, I could smell the vehicle getting hot - old car smell as Kat put it - this time, it was odorless! The vehicle went as it always does, but I thought I'd ask a few questions and report on what I found.....

    1) We have done 260 km on just over half a tank of fuel - that seems very good to me. What do you think?

    2) When we left home, the dipstick showed the oil level about a quarter below the full mark. It had dropped, when I checked it again, (120km later) - it was now about a quarter above minimum. That's driving it about 120km, some of it flat out.

    3) I added oil to around the max line the next morning, checked once cold at home again - it doesn't seem to have used hardly any coming home?

    4) When powering up hills etc, the engine makes a rapid clacking/clicking noise - I think this noise is the valves (or valve stems) - will an additive help with this? It does it to a much lesser extent just cruising along and has always done so.

    5) It doesn't seem to blow any smoke - even chugging up hills. It always starts very easily. It doesn't seem to have much power, but seems to pull up hills, even in top gear, albeit slowly. I did have to drop back to 3rd from time to time, but it is a torquey engine. We also had all our camping gear so it was loaded up. My iPhone suggests top speed is about 80-85km/h.

    Do these observations sound about right? I worry I should investigate the clicking noise from the engine under load, but no one who has driven it had really made mention of it - and these are folks who are used to driving these vehicle. And - how do I check the transfer case oil level and top it up if necessary? The gearbox has it's own dipstick and filler.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scallops View Post
    Folks - had some real fun this weekend gone. Kat and I took Matilda away to the Border Ranges to camp, which was the first time we have really gone any real distance and used the little truck for camping.
    It was really lovely. The last time I had an issue - the infamous water pump debacle, I could smell the vehicle getting hot - this time, it was odorless! The vehicle went as it always does, but I thought I'd ask a few questions and report on what I found.....


    1) We have done 260 km on just over half a tank of fuel - that seems very good to me. What do you think? Depends upon what size the tank is - better to quote actual consumption (l/100kms) after filling up.

    2) When we left home, the dipstick showed the oil level about a quarter below the full mark. It had dropped, when I checked it again, (120km later) - it was now about a quarter above minimum. That's driving it about 120km, some of it flat out.
    3) I added oil to around the max line the next morning, checked once cold at home again - it doesn't seem to have used hardly any coming home? It's been quite a while since I've had the pleasure of owning/driving any of the Series Landys but in my experience if the engine oil level was kept at the max indicated level (or even slightly above), then oil consumption was minimal.

    4) When powering up hills etc, the engine makes a rapid clacking/clicking noise - I think this noise is the valves (or valve stems) - will an additive help with this? It does it to a much lesser extent just cruising along and has always done so. Sounds like pinging to me - try retarding the ignition timing slightly and try it out under load again.
    Knocking (also called knock, detonation, spark knock, pinging or pinking) in spark-ignition internal combustion engines occurs when combustion of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder starts off correctly in response to ignition by the spark plug, but one or more pockets of air/fuel mixture explode outside the envelope of the normal combustion front. The fuel-air charge is meant to be ignited by the spark plug only, and at a precise time in the piston's stroke cycle. The peak of the combustion process no longer occurs at the optimum moment for the four-stroke cycle. The shock wave creates the characteristic metallic "pinging" sound, and cylinder pressure increases dramatically. Effects of engine knocking range from inconsequential to completely destructive. It should not be confused with pre-ignition (or preignition), as they are two separate events.

    5) It doesn't seem to blow any smoke - even chugging up hills. It always starts very easily. It doesn't seem to have much power, but seems to pull up hills, even in top gear, albeit slowly. I did have to drop back to 3rd from time to time, but it is a torquey engine. Result of an 'undersquare' (??) engine - longer stroke than bore. Made for torque characteristics not speed! We also had all our camping gear so it was loaded up. My iPhone suggests top speed is about 80-85km/h.

    Do these observations sound about right? I worry I should investigate the clicking noise from the engine under load, but no one who has driven it had really made mention of it - and these are folks who are used to driving these vehicle. Maybe they didn'yt subject it the load you did when travelling up hills with a load aboard. And - how do I check the transfer case oil level and top it up if necessary? Filler/level plug on rear near handbrake drum. The gearbox has it's own dipstick and filler.
    Some possible suggestions/comments in blue.

    Lovely photos (saw your other thread) and beautiful camp spot by the way - any hints on location -would like to visit when I'm next in the area.
    Last edited by Xtreme; 15th November 2010 at 11:24 AM. Reason: Spelling typo
    Roger


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    Quote Originally Posted by Xtreme View Post
    Some possible suggestions/comments in blue.

    Lovely photos (saw your other thread) and beautiful camp spot by the way - any hints on location -would like to visit when I'm next in the area.
    Andrew Drynan Park, Lyons Road - about 3 miles towards Rathdowney from the railway line loop at the border.

    I'm unsure of the tank capacity - it's about 40 litres, I suspect. I'll check the TC level tonight - thanks.
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    Fuel consumption is about normal. Check as suggested for possibility of preignition.

    Other possibility is tappets need adjusting.

    High oil consumption on the outward leg followed by low consumption suggests that you had crankcase dilution due to short runs with too much choke, or could indicate the rings were bedding in now that it has been asked to work hard.

    Performance is about normal, maybe down a bit - top speed should be around 100kph, but it certainly will not be very happy over about 85-90.

    John
    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Fuel consumption is about normal. Check as suggested for possibility of preignition.

    Other possibility is tappets need adjusting.

    High oil consumption on the outward leg followed by low consumption suggests that you had crankcase dilution due to short runs with too much choke, or could indicate the rings were bedding in now that it has been asked to work hard.

    Performance is about normal, maybe down a bit - top speed should be around 100kph, but it certainly will not be very happy over about 85-90.

    John
    I'll ask Dave for a diagnosis regarding the engine noise.

    Thanks for the explanation regarding oil consumption. But I never drive with choke - I can push the choke back in within 30 seconds of starting and she just gurgled along on idle. But maybe that is what happened - these drives are the first decent trips the engine has had in years.

    Performance is definitely down if it should do 100km/h. 80 -85 is flat out and causes the driver to suffer from industrial deafness. I am running 6 X 16 tyres so maybe that partially accounts for this.
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    A good habit to get into is to check your oil levels before starting the engine for the initial time of the day and where possible do this with the vehicle in the same place and conditions (like the garage) or if out on the roadside somewhere, try to emulate these same conditions, ie. flat and level and cold engine.
    If you leave on a trip with the level (measured in the garage at home) on full, and the day after you get home and the engine is once again cold and you dip it once again (back in the garage at home) then, and only then, will you be able to glean what your engine oil consumption actually is by adding together what you may have added on the trip plus what you must add to regain the same "full" level you left with.
    When the engine is hot, oil is still running around various galleries etc. and dripping off various internal bits and pieces and hasn't yet had a chance to accumulate in the sump where your dipstick measures it.
    Watch for excessive blue smoke (burning oil gives off blue smoke) and always look under your vehicle every time you walk away from it and towards it, regardless of how new or old it is! In this way you will soon get to notice how much oil your vehicle is dropping and burning and you will soon (with experience) be able to judge when it is losing excessive amounts and a problem is raising its ugly head.
    Gearboxes and transfer cases generally won't burn oil, only leak, so the golden rule of "looking under your vehicle every time you leave or approach it" applies here.
    Get to know the difference of smell, taste and touch of the various oils in your vehicle and you will have no trouble analysing what is lying under your vehicle. (Be careful with the taste test if there are dogs in the vicinity)
    Also take note of where you park your vehicle, that is, not over someone else's oil drop etc.
    Rather than try to evaluate how far you have gone on what percentage of a tank via your gauge, once again, get into a habit of filling your tank at the end of a trip*, then dividing the distance by the actual fuel used and formulate an idea of the vehicle's economy from that. Get into the habit of running a book on all of your vehicles, any drastic variance of figures could warn of an impending problem!
    (*Providing that you use the vehicle regularly and it is not going to stand idle for 6 months!)
    The first half of a tankful on a gauge always lasts longer than the second half, because of the geometry of the swinging float arm on the gauge and secondly because of the drivers panicky concerns re the gauge's accuracy as the needle gets closer to empty.
    Have fun with it, get used to its finicky ways, enjoy it, live WITH it and not against it, and you will be pleasantly surprised at the similarity between owning a Series Land Rover and being married.
    The same rules apply!
    Also I am delighted to welcome you to the wonderful world of "Torque", a much maligned and misunderstood factor amongst the majority of today's modern motorists.
    Regards
    Glen

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    I went to check the Transfer case when I got home from work tonight - the level bung is rounded off. Killer managed to get the blasted bung out with some Vice Grips - note - buy some, Dan. Good job I checked, as it needed a top up. Not that LR made it easy to check - got to remove the middle seat box panel to get at the filler and bung.

    Still, driving back home into the setting sun, knowing all is well and driving a Series 1 - GOLD.
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    Comments much the same as above. Dont take much notice of the fuel gauge. Start with a full tank and check it every so often, then fill again. This will give you an idea of consumption. Tank size is 10 gallons BTW (or 45 litres for you metric people) Mine does about 20/22 mpg. 70 to 80 k's is plenty fast enough in my humble opinion and I have done a few 300k plus round trips in mine.

    Just enjoy
    Numpty

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    Leon - 1957 Series 1 88" Soft Top
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scallops View Post
    I went to check the Transfer case when I got home from work tonight - the level bung is rounded off. Killer managed to get the blasted bung out with some Vice Grips - note - buy some, Dan. Good job I checked, as it needed a top up. Not that LR made it easy to check - got to remove the middle seat box panel to get at the filler and bung.

    Still, driving back home into the setting sun, knowing all is well and driving a Series 1 - GOLD.
    I've always checked it from below! One advantage of Landrovers is you can work underneath without a hoist or similar.

    John
    John

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    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I've always checked it from below! One advantage of Landrovers is you can work underneath without a hoist or similar.

    John
    x2
    Numpty

    Thomas - 1955 Series 1 107" Truck Cab
    Leon - 1957 Series 1 88" Soft Top
    Lewis - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil Gunbuggy
    Teddy5 - 2001 Ex Telstra Big Cab Td5
    ​Betsy - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil GS
    REMLR No 143

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