Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 25

Thread: re-setting springs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Warragul
    Posts
    566
    Total Downloaded
    0

    re-setting springs

    My 80" suffers from the typical droopy drivers side rear spring . Because the diff is off-set and the petrol tank and driver are added weight.. that spring apparently has a different load ratiing on that side . The parts book has a different number for drivers and pass. rear springs.

    240 AC put me onto this idea. I bought a cheap pipe bender and had a go at re-setting the spring . Will post photos soon.

    you dissasemble the spring and bend each leaf individually . Before bending , lay down the leaf and scribe a line with chalk , this line is your reference to see how far you have bent .

    DONT bend near the centre hole as this is a weak point .

    I've done the main leaf so far.. the pipe bender does it easily .. But be gentle until you get the "feel" of how far to go .

    I dont know the physics of bending spring steel cold, somebody here will no doubt

    MIKE

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The driver and passenger side springs on landies don't have different "load ratings" (or spring rate if that is what you meant) - they have the same spring rate, just a different "free camber" side to side (your line in the chalk).

    I have never heard of resetting springs using a pipe bender?

    However I have done it using a sledgehammer and anvil. Bayside springs use a hydraulic press.

    Make sure you set each leaf to a slightly greater free camber to the leaf above.

    If you want them to remain at the new height, you need to heat them up with an oxy once reassembled as a pack. not too hot, just until they start to change coloue.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    East-South-East Girt-By-Sea
    Posts
    17,662
    Total Downloaded
    1.20 MB
    Mike

    I thought you also had to re-tension the spring by heating and quenching to keep the new set in the leaf?

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Warragul
    Posts
    566
    Total Downloaded
    0

    springs

    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Mike

    I thought you also had to re-tension the spring by heating and quenching to keep the new set in the leaf?

    Diana
    The professionals first heat up the spring , it becomes easier to bend ..... then they re-set/bend it as a whole pack , and then they finally temper the spring again with heat so it becomes springy again ...

    I'm experimenting really .

    I used to use JACOBS spring works in Melbourne , but they no longer exist I believe. They did large truck springs .

    I would be very wary of applying heat without knowing the exact temp.

    MIKE

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Warragul
    Posts
    566
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    . Bayside springs use a hydraulic press.

    Make sure you set each leaf to a slightly greater free camber to the leaf above.

    .
    OK thanks .. yes a pipe bender is a hydraulic press I guess

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by series1buff View Post
    The professionals first heat up the spring , it becomes easier to bend ..... then they re-set/bend it as a whole pack , and then they finally temper the spring again with heat so it becomes springy again ...
    No they don't. I have watched Bayside spring works reset mine. There is no way you can properly reset springs without dissassembling the packs.

    They disassemble the packs, reset each leaf individually on a hydraulic press (each leaf slightly more camber than the last), then reassemble the packs, then heat up (no quench). This is basically a tempering process after the cold reset, and removes stress induced by the reset and any "memory" in the leaves.

    The set they did for me they didn't temper, and they sagged within 12 months. They then redid them and tempered them the 2nd time (plus a front pair). That was done in 1998 and the springs are still fine today - despite LOTS of 4x4ing and carting 1.5 tonne loads of firewood.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Warragul
    Posts
    566
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    No they don't. I have watched Bayside spring works reset mine. There is no way you can properly reset springs without dissassembling the packs.

    They disassemble the packs, reset each leaf individually on a hydraulic press (each leaf slightly more camber than the last), then reassemble the packs, then heat up (no quench). This is basically a tempering process after the cold reset, and removes stress induced by the reset and any "memory" in the leaves.

    The set they did for me they didn't temper, and they sagged within 12 months. They then redid them and tempered them the 2nd time (plus a front pair). That was done in 1998 and the springs are still fine today - despite LOTS of 4x4ing and carting 1.5 tonne loads of firewood.
    There is more than one way to skin a cat .JACOBS used to re-set in the whole pack . It wouldn't have been economically viable for them to do each leaf individually... would have taken hours to do just one spring , they used to do large truck springs aon a massive press they had . They used a hot process when bending , not cold .
    This summary is useful

    Spring steel is characterized more by its metalurgy than the tempering. There are many grades of steel and spring steel, all of which have varied carbon content and alloys to give it whatever properties it needs. The tempering provides the correct degree of hardness to let it spring properly, just as correct tempering and annealing makes tool steel approriately tough for its task. Too soft it will not hold its shape, too hard it can break too easily.

    Bending cold will be difficult with any larger guage material. Cold bending can also lead to weakness as you are forcing the metal past its working point in order for it to hold the new shape. Bending always adds hardness to the metal which may not be desireable (think of bending a piece of metal repeatedly until it breaks).

    Heating to bend will be easier to work, but you will need to retemper it. This will ultimately yield a better end result if the spring will be in a use that requires it to do a lot of work. Tempering though is not a simple task for a casual home do-it-yourselfer; it involves fairly exact heating and quenching to get it right. If the portion that you need to bend is not the actual working part of the spring, ie: the eye on a leaf spring, the tempering may not be as critical.

    So it really comes down to what you are making the spring for, how durable it needs to be, and whether or not you can bend it cold.. ful:

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by series1buff View Post
    [SIZE="3"]There is more than one way to skin a cat .JACOBS used to re-set in the whole pack . It wouldn't have been economically viable for them to do each leaf individually...
    There may be more than one way to skin a cat, but not all of them are correct.

    Sorry but that is dodgy, and would likely shorten the life of the springs and/or increase the stress in the main leaf. I still can't see how they can reset a spring pack as a whole with the clamps still on, and to remove and refit the clamps you need to disassemble the packs.

    Then springs are manufactured they are hot rolled to the correct free camber - individually. Whether you are doing a hot or cold reset, it doesn't take much time to disassemble a pack and do the leaves individually.

    When I designed my spring packs I had a copy of the SAE leaf spring design manual for automotive engineers. It discussed how and why each leaf needs a higher free camber than the leaf above it - which is not possible if you reset the whole pack in one go.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Warragul
    Posts
    566
    Total Downloaded
    0

    JACOBS

    I just checked and it looks like JACOBS is still there in OAKLEIGH ...

    If my home back yard method doesn't work in the long run ( likely ) ..... I'll take the spring to them to do it .

    They have been in business since Jesus was a boy .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by series1buff View Post


    They have been in business since Jesus was a boy .
    Funny you should mention hey-zoos - the biggest conman in human history...

    Jacobs manufacture ironman suspension AFAIK - I would be very supprised if they don't reset springs properly as they have all the gear. They certainly couldn't do parabolics like that.

    EDIT:
    Here is a pic from westralia springs in perth of them doing a hot reset. Notice they have taken the springs apart (pic shows a single main leaf).



    But you are free to believe whatever you want - including that some buy who lived a long time ago was the son of a deity and not some random schizophrenic.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!