That wire basket on the bonnett looks special, I presume that it is aftermarket
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That wire basket on the bonnett looks special, I presume that it is aftermarket
It's very special, if anybody needs one I'll give it a good home. So good that when you lift the bonnet it hits the windscreen. Still , there are worst things that could have been done and at least I can just un-bolt it.Quote:
Originally Posted by crash
Cheers Jeff
Based on the lack of ring pull gearbox i m guessing late 50 model. Does it have fish tail attachments for the front bumper? Mine was built Sept 49 (car number 06101688) and sent out as a 50 model and it has the ring pull and fishtails. I think yours is a smidge newer.
My guess it's a Early 1951 Model. Going off the the catches for holding the windscreen upright changed from being the straight type to the curved type at 16661407
This vehicle as straight type from what i can see in the photo. Also the pivot pins holding the windscreen on are bolts so that was very very late 50 (L06115323)when they went back to bolts. (From what i can see)
If it's a Annand and Thompson the chassis number will be stamped along the front passenger side rail (very holden motor conversion friendy) infront of the engine mount. It's in quite lightly stamped and large letters.
Are you sure about that? My 16661747 A&T 1951 model had the numbers stamped in the regular place using relatively small number punches.Quote:
Originally Posted by LRO53
I don't think the chassis top numbering happened at A&T till 1952 or 1953 as I mentioned above.
Mick, what is a ring pull gearbox & bumper fishtails? I am still learning all the landrover terms.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick-Kelly
Cheers Jeff
I'm off to pick it up in the morning and should be home around lunch time, so I will search for model number and chassis and take more photos. By about 5 pm I'll see what happens when the wife gets home , by which time I'll be on my way to watch the Reds play in Brisbane. Hopefuly I wont need my swag, its very cold here this week.
Thanks to all who put up replies, I'm sure I will have many more questions as the fun of the rebuild starts, anyway I think its time for a beer.
Cheers Jeff
JeffQuote:
Originally Posted by outback jeff
it's all very confusing! :)
Ring pull: the very early 80" engaged the freewheel lock by pulling up on a ring at the end of a chain recessed into the floor just below the hand-brake lever. In mid 1950 the ring and chain were replaced by a yellow knob on a spring loaded shaft that protruded from the side of the transmission tunnel next to the main gearstick. The function of the yellow knob at this time, however was the same as the ring pull. It locked the freewheel unit so that you had 4WD in reverse.
Fish-plate chassis: The very early 80" from 1948 through mid 1950 had metal plates which resembled fish tails welded to the front "dumb irons" of the chassis rails. The front bumper bar was inserted in between these fish-tail shaped plates and bolted on with 8 short bolts and nuts. From mid 1950, the fish plates were discontinued and rectangular brackets were welded onto the bumper bar before they were galvanised. These rectangular brackets slipped over the dumb irons and 4 long bolts held the bumper bar onto the chassis.
Freewheel unit and Selectable transfer boxes: From 1948 up-to and including about two thousand 1951 cars, had freewheel units attached to the front output-shaft of the transfer box. These freewheel units allowed the front axle to spin faster than the rear axle and prevented transmission wind-up when used in 4WD on paved roads. It was a constant 4WD system. Unfortunately in reverse the freewheel unit prevented the drive getting to the front axles. To overcome this function the lock function of ring pull or yellow button was used. You released the free-wheel lock by selecting low range and then back to high range using the lever with the red knob.
Selectable 2WD/4WD transfer boxes. After the first two thousand gearboxes for 1951 were fitted, the freewheel units were removed and were replaced by a simple dog-clutch arrangement. In high range constant 4WD was gone and you drove around in rear wheel drive. To select 4WD in high range you depressed the yellow button and a spring mechanism locked the dog-clutch in the front output and 4WD was obtained. You were always in 4WD in low range. As in the earlier freewheel units, to disengage 4WD you select low range and then high range using the lever with the red knob and the yellow knob should pop up. The selectable transfer box design continued unchanged until the middle of the 1980's when the coil sprung 90 and 110 models were relesed.
Diana
If you take the time to read the car number changeover/mod. sequence compiled by Mike Bishop ( found on the LRSOC site and at least one other site) , it tells the whole story. Lots of minor changes along the way to learn about, apart from the major ones.
Mike
In fact pre-pros & possibly very very early 80s had part time 4wd & freewheel because there was an extra dog to disengage the front axle completely. (Three knobs on pre-pro bulkheads.) Later freewheel housings do actually retain the casting bits for this, but I think the extra metal was eventually removed from the mould??? I have some NEW shafts for this early freewheel arrangement, ex Champions Adelaide. It is illustrated in Parts Cat TP 111/B, 12/48 revised 4/50, with a spacer to jam the engaging dog in position, so the front axle was permanently engaged. The "TRANSFER BOX nos". were up to 861988. I have never seen a numbered transfer case.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies