D**n then I woke up. :zzz:[bigsad]Quote:
Originally Posted by outback jeff
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D**n then I woke up. :zzz:[bigsad]Quote:
Originally Posted by outback jeff
I have not spent as much time on my project as I would like. However I have removed the firewall and this afternoon with the help of my next door neighbour's and his work truck (with Hiab) we removed the engine.
Attachment 36509Hiabs make engine removal easy
Attachment 36510Have a look at the grunge in the bottom of the bell housing
Attachment 36511Slowly coming apart
Time now for a beers, till next update
Cheers Jeff
hi geff good find the battery box early type jimQuote:
Originally Posted by outback jeff
I have nearly got my toy down to the chasis. However there are a few parts that I can't get off.
Firstly the cotter pins that hold on the clutch pedal on, I can't get them out . See photo below
Attachment 37017
Second the steering pivot thing at the frount of the chassis, don't know what I'm doing wrong but I can't get out.
Attachment 37018
Third see photo below. Does this come out? I can't work out if it does or not.
Attachment 37019
So if anyone can tell me how to get these parts off I would be very grateful.
Time for beers.
Cheers Jeff
The photos are a bit hard to see what you are referring too, the second photo however is the steering relay, very hard to remove, a very common problem, we oxyed out ours as the chassis was rusty, be very careful with it as it has a spring in it under tension.
Mrs hh:angel:
1. Clutch pedal cotter pins - probably tapered - are you trying the right way?
2. Steering relay. These seem to be either loose or immovable - I built a far trailer out of a series chassis - still got the relay on it! Try copious quantities of penetrating oil, and a substantial puller. As a last resort, you could try disassembling the relay (extreme caution - heavy spring danger!) If you remove the cover one end by undoing the bolts and tap the works up until the split bush starts to appear and then clamp it with a hose clip, adding a second one half an inch lower down, and repeat when the bottom bush appears, the spring will be held compressed and safe. You could then heat the relay from the inside to break the rust holding it. An alternative would be to cut a hole about an inch in diameter in the cross member (front and rear) in way of the relay, to allow you to heat the tube surrounding the relay. This is likely to be more effective, but will mean you will later have to repair the holes.
3. Shock absorber mount I think. I do not believe it is detachable.
Hope this helps
John
When I pulled my 80" apart I found a gas torch to heat and get things to expand to be my best option for rusty bits. You might need a couple of cycles. Combined with a blow from a hammer at the time when expansion is at it's max will yield the best results. Luckily I have not had to resort to oxy to cut things out yet.
jeff
the last pic (3) is the hand brake shaft where the actuating lever fits on ... That one on your vehicle looks OK, they do wear into a oval shape as over many years the hand brake is pulled on and off. It would be a bugger to get out , so leave it there if its still round .
I saw a pic of a device made up to remove the steering relay with a hydraulic car jack .
The pedal thing is a cotter pin like push bikes used to have , you hit it out from one side as it's got a tapered flat on one side. Some heat would help if it's stuck.
Mike
Ok, Thanks to all who have provided advice. My question now is , Is the steering relay supose to pull out the top? , or Can it be hammered out from the bottom?
Thanks again Jeff
Yes, it comes out upwards. I would go easy on hammering it, especially if you are planning to reuse it. Also, you may run a risk of breaking the bolts on the top plate allowing the shaft, spring and bushes to come out, and in this case the spring propelling bits may cause injuries or damage.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback jeff
John
