Thread: Carbi rebuild????

Originally Posted by easo

G'day all, it needs to be done but how? I've never done one before but then 90% of the stuff I have done to the old girl I'd never done before until I ripped it to bits.
How hard is it?
Are there any bits that go flying?
Or shut up easo a pull it apart?

Also is there a way to service the fuel pump as when I start the old girl I need to be tapping on the pump for about 5mins for it to keep pumping?

Regards Easo

If you do not have one, get a factory manual. The problem you may have is finding parts, but the first thing would be to disassemble it and check what you need.

It is a long time since I owned a Series 1 (or a 2/2a with a Solex for that matter), but if you have the manual I think it is relatively easy.

If all you need is new gaskets and diaphragms and needle and seat, you should be OK - I think these can be got fairly easily. However, you are likely to find that the throttle shaft and bushes are worn, perhaps badly. You may be able to find a new shaft, but you are likely to need to make one. The "bushes" - holes in the body - will probably have to be reamed out and fitted with specially made bushes - not a big job if you have access to a lathe and reamers the right size, but pretty fiddly.

Keep track of where all the screws and other bits go, and don't damage any threads, and don't poke anything through any jets that can damage them. When assembling diaphragms that are clamped at the edges (from memory, two in this carburetter), make sure that you move the moveable bit through the full range before tightening the screws round the edge. (same applies to the fuel pump)

The fuel pump is probably fixable - I expect the points are not making good contact or are incorrectly adjusted. I am not sure whether you can get new points, but adjustment is covered in the manual, and the points can be cleaned (use a file not wet and dry), as carborundum may be left embedded in the contacts and encourages sparking. And make sure that the pump is well earthed and there are no loose connections.

John

those bloody carbies

Buy a good kit ...not the crap fuelmiser brand one .

The ZENITH brand one is good ..GOWER and LEE in the Uk have them.... great to deal with .... 4 wheel drives in Melbourne had them too ,old stock aftermarket UK ones . The kits vary in content greatly ... I bought an original SOLEX kit on EBAY .


The accelerator pump assembly is prone to leakage at the gasket where it joins the main body ..if you find a good gasket material it will seal, but its frustrating . Most of the kits are years old and the gaskets in them are usually stuffed

They are fussy about float levels .... see my post about it .

I used a bigger main air bleed jet and it helped greatly to lessen the rich running problem.. these little basta..d carbies will run rich if they are worn. The main air bleed sits on top of the emulsifuer tube . You could file out a standard one a bit .

The 1600 carbies are different so don't think they are the same as 2 litre . They are dated on the side 54 = 1954 etc.

Good points: the jets are easy to get at and clean out.

Bad points: fussy to set up but once set up correctly will run for years . there are many posts on the UK forum relating to carbies .

They like low fuel pump pressure 1.5 psi max. - the needle/seat in them is a left over from gravity fed systems of pre war years.

The SU pumps are also fussy but will work for years if you set them up within certain parameters ...

Follow the manuals .....

I highly recomend you fit the twin points .. the switching current is split between 2 points rather than going through the one set . It's a easy job and SU themselves made them standard . The single points tend to arc and pit badly , causing them to stick . Twin points are easy to buy . Gower and Lee sells the whole SU kit for about $35 .... EPAY has the points too ...the same pump was used on Morris Minors of the 1950's , hence thousands of pumps are out there.

A certain vendor at Tullamarine told me that kits are not available and he pointed me towards a new electronic SU pump .. nearly $200 ....

BTW a replacement pump is made in NZ .... reasonably priced and its on EPAY all the time ...12 volt SU Style Electric Fuel Pump 1-2psi Morris Minor | eBay

Looks rather rough and maybe only good for parts

SOLEX 32PBI-2 CARBY LAND ROVER 1.6 AND 2 LITRE 1948-58 | eBay

Same seller has a Standard Vanguard carby ..basically a Land Rover carby without a acc. pump. ..see the blanking off part,

SOLEX B32BIO-4 VANGUARD MORGAN TRIUMPH MINX 1949-60 | eBay

Originally Posted by series1buff

The 1600 carbies are different so don't think they are the same as 2 litre . They are dated on the side 54 = 1954 etc.

The carbies are the same. Only the jet sizes are different. There are 3 different configurations........1600, 2 litre siamese and 2 litre spread bore. The manual gives the various sizes.

Originally Posted by numpty

The carbies are the same. Only the jet sizes are different. There are 3 different configurations........1600, 2 litre siamese and 2 litre spread bore. The manual gives the various sizes.

I thought that too , until the guys on the UK forum informed me different . The main venturi inside is different ..23 for the 1600 and 25 for the 2 litre ... or something like that .

It is actually marked if you know where to look . It is quite noticeable if you have the two side by side , the 1600 has a narrower venturi .

Mike

the 1600 carby on the left has a smaller main venturi , 2 litre on the right . It is easy to see it .

The narrowing of the venturi speeds up the air flow as it is drawn into the manifold ... essentially , it is a device there to assist the petrol being sucked into the air flow . The faster air = higher vacuum at that point . Note how the petrol outlet holes are located right at the narrowest part of the venturi.



MIKE