Thread: My new 107, Lucky

In regard to oil leaks - some will (have) said you can do this and that and sort them out. Well good luck with that! Series 1's leak oil if they have oil - you can change every gasket etc and then go for a long country drive, put a drip tray under her and I'll tell you what, it'll leak oil.

You have a grand old lady in lucky, Jason - just enjoy it.

Originally Posted by Scallops

In regard to oil leaks - some will (have) said you can do this and that and sort them out. Well good luck with that! Series 1's leak oil if they have oil - you can change every gasket etc and then go for a long country drive, put a drip tray under her and I'll tell you what, it'll leak oil.

You have a grand old lady in lucky, Jason - just enjoy it.

Dan I was kind of thinking that. Lucky has barely done 500 mils after a motor rebuild, and I don't think time perished gaskets much. So it leaves you with they just leak oil, period.

I not hopeful it would pass a road worthy actually, unless I get a mechanic who understands old LR's. It's probably not much, but compared to a modern motor it leaks like a sieve.

Originally Posted by newhue

Dan I was kind of thinking that. Lucky has barely done 500 mils after a motor rebuild, and I don't think time perished gaskets much. So it leaves you with they just leak oil, period.

I not hopeful it would pass a road worthy actually, unless I get a mechanic who understands old LR's. It's probably not much, but compared to a modern motor it leaks like a sieve.

You need to use a reasonable mechanic - look for a sympathetic one with experience with old English vehicles - such a person might roadworthy lucky for you then let you know if there is anything you need to see to ASAP.

PM me if you'd like a suggestion.

Originally Posted by digger

That is sweet!,,


where did he hide the brake booster? (near the res?)

Poking around tonight I had a look at the rear brakes.
Turns out beside the drivers rear way over adjusted, the drums are 11", so happy they are the later version.

I also found a 2" hole in the bell housing with perished rubber running around the outside lip. I can see the clutch. Is this meant to be?

I think I will have a crack at some of the oil leaks. Might start on the rear diff, and build up to the front diff and the round ball things on the end of it.
Do I install confidence in you

Originally Posted by newhue

Poking around tonight I had a look at the rear brakes.
Turns out beside the drivers rear way over adjusted, the drums are 11", so happy they are the later version.

I also found a 2" hole in the bell housing with perished rubber running around the outside lip. I can see the clutch. Is this meant to be?

I think I will have a crack at some of the oil leaks. Might start on the rear diff, and build up to the front diff and the round ball things on the end of it.
Do I install confidence in you

Hi Newhue

Having 11" brakes is a kick in the right direction.

That hole is meant to have a large rubber bung, Called --- wait for it--------Grommet for bell housing hole, part number 232604.

The other side of the bell housing has a grommet,Called --- wait for it--------Grommet for bell housing hole, part number 236281 RHD.

If you are still Lucky, you may find some of these still and if you do I would use the type of engine sealant, that is used instead of gaskets, to seal them in place.

With the swivel pin housings, turn the wheels hard one way and look at the condition of the chrome on those balls, then do the same back the other way.
If the balls are pitted at all, then you would be wasting your time and hard earned stuff, by only, just replacing the swivel pin housing seals.

If the condition of the chrome is good then replace the seals, then pay attention to the outside of the seals where they are seated and use a good quality sealant, between those surfaces .
Consider also, doing the unthinkable ( a big sorry to all the rivet counters! ) and up grade the swivel pins to to later Railko bushes as well.

A three part Youtube clip, for Defender not series one, but is good to learn from, on how to do this repair.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D61jVnXGY28"]Landrover Defender & Discover Axle refurb rebuild Railko Bushes Swivel housings the lot - YouTube[/ame]
This clip does have some info about CV joints, for example, that is not applicable.

Don't be tempted to discard the gaskets and use sealant only in some of the joints, as some of the gaskets are meant to be there, as distancing pieces.

In conjunction with paper and cork gaskets, I have done always and still use today, with excellent results (no leaks), Permatex no 3 aviation gasket cement, spread on all mating surfaces.

Cheers Arthur and good night all

Check out the following businesses for the bell housing grommet - I bought mine from one of them but I can't remember which one.
Dunsfold DLR
L. R. Series - specialists in land rover, land rover series and range rover - gearbox, axle, transmission parts, spares and major units


If the swivel balls are pitted as Arthur suggests, you can either replace them or repair them. I bought cheap ones, which started to rust whilst in the shed, so on my S3 I de-rusted them in a molasses bath and filled the pits with two-part epoxy filler. I got the idea from someone on the S1 forum who used Araldite and he said they hadn't leaked in the two years they had been on the car.

Railko kits are available from Dunsfolds I think. I bought S3 kits and machined a new upper swivel to fit.

Before you reassemble your first oil leak on the axle, examine the faces of the parts for damage. Just about every component on mine, had bumps and nicks from people using hammers and screwdrivers to get parts apart. File the lumps off with a smooth file making sure any swarf doesn't get inside where it shouldn't be. If you don't do this the chances are the joint will leak when assembled,

Cheers Charlie

Just a word about the taper roller swivel bearings used on the early series 1's . They were fitted on both upper and lower swivel pins I believe. This isn't a good idea as many cases of front axle oscillation have been reported. At certain frequencies ( hitting a bump or travelling over railway lines ) the front axle goes into a wild swinging state... I've experienced it myself on a few different old 4X4's , WW2 Jeeps and a 1941 1/2 ton Dodge weapons carrier . Reports from series 1 owners have indicated that fitting a railco kit solves the problem. MIKE