Thread: My new 107, Lucky

Chris, it depends what vehicle you are using the Valvaline gear box oil in. But I'd say stay with the g box oil in the g box, GTX motor oil in the motor. EP stands for extreme pressure thus runs in g boxes and diffs. There are all sorts of additives put into oils to make them better suited for their use.
A series g box from my understanding has brass pieces that can be affected by some of these additives. G boxes in other later vehicles may not or do not have these concerns.
When a series box was made many of these additives didn't exist, and neither did all the specialised oils, so motor oil filled the gap in a gear box.
Look back through the thread and there are some links to "The Good Oil". I think it's one of the later ones, but it talks about brass and additives.

Originally Posted by newhue

Chris, it depends what vehicle you are using the Valvaline gear box oil in. But I'd say stay with the g box oil in the g box, GTX motor oil in the motor. EP stands for extreme pressure thus runs in g boxes and diffs. There are all sorts of additives put into oils to make them better suited for their use.
A series g box from my understanding has brass pieces that can be affected by some of these additives. G boxes in other later vehicles may not or do not have these concerns.
When a series box was made many of these additives didn't exist, and neither did all the specialised oils, so motor oil filled the gap in a gear box.
Look back through the thread and there are some links to "The Good Oil". I think it's one of the later ones, but it talks about brass and additives.

Sorry Newhue, should have specified the vehicle. It is a '54 86". When I put it back together last year I think I put the Valvoline gear oil in all gear areas (transmission, transfer, diffs) and GTX in the motor.

I'll have a look through "The Good Oil" section thanks.

Cheers,
Chris

Well i discovered why my axels were not centre and the whole hub was difficult to turn.
The previous owner had used a similar bearing in the top of the swivel ball similar to the bottom. He had used a 2.5mm spacer under the lower bearing which lowered the outer black cup thingy that the hub bolts onto. This put friction on the bearing and seals which made it firm to turn, and when the free wheel hub was added, the whole thing just about locked up. So after pulling it apart and putting in a Railko kit, and some standard flanges it's all smick.

Originally Posted by newhue

Well i discovered why my axels were not centre and the whole hub was difficult to turn.
The previous owner had used a similar bearing in the top of the swivel ball similar to the bottom. He had used a 2.5mm spacer under the lower bearing which lowered the outer black cup thingy that the hub bolts onto. This put friction on the bearing and seals which made it firm to turn, and when the free wheel hub was added, the whole thing just about locked up. So after pulling it apart and putting in a Railko kit, and some standard flanges it's all smick.

That's good to hear Jason. I wonder why they put the top bearing in previously? I can't think of any reason it would be better than the railko. I'm still getting mine back together after a few issues with damaged studs and broken bolts so you actually beat me to it .

Cheers,

Tim.

it's not over yet, having a bit of a moment with the right brake drum sticking. New shoes, machined drum, new wheel cylinders, aligned shoes with drum, not even bleed yet, but when the drums locking grub screws are but in it seems to bind and become tight to turn. Seems to be my lot at the moment, freeing up things.

hey thanks for running through the hub issue.

Originally Posted by newhue

it's not over yet, having a bit of a moment with the right brake drum sticking. New shoes, machined drum, new wheel cylinders, aligned shoes with drum, not even bleed yet, but when the drums locking grub screws are but in it seems to bind and become tight to turn. Seems to be my lot at the moment, freeing up things.

Hi Jason

First slip the driving flange off, then spin the hub, marking the outside edge of the brake drum, using a piece of chalk. Hold the chalk steady by using a block of wood, at the hub centre height.

If there is run out of the drum, the chalk mark will show at only one place being the high spot, then try the face of the drum using the same technique.

If at the last, with the drum removed and the high spot still showing, but now on the face of the hub, I would looking for a wheel bearing cup that hasn't seated properly.

If the drum has no run out, there may be a small oily spot inside the drum.

Well enthusiasts, there comes a day that differs from the day you first took delivery of your prized possession, and that day is the first day you drive it.

Today was that day for me. I finished of the brakes, added the last of the oil to the diff, tightened the wheel nuts and poured in 20lt of fresh fuel into the tank. Pulled the choke out and pushed in the big silver button. Lucky burst into life and crept out of the garage.
His not registered yet but I couldn't resist a few laps around the block. Love the idea and freedom of no seat belts and door tops. All went well however the brakes a bit sensitive, and have to get aquatinted with the turning arc as I think it beats my 130.
Back home and picked the kids up for a drive along the grassy easement over the road. Not sure who was the more excited, me or the kids, but into 4wd we go and down through an earth gutter. Lucky just putted through crossing axles and crawling out the other side. I thought what the hell, into reverse and back through it. Very impressed what this little 107 can do with worn out front suspension.

Will have to get some pics up tomorrow, and rattle my dags now and get the rego sorted.

Good work