Thread: Fuel Tank Repair

Hi Colin
a very capable friend has repaired 2
firstly by removing one from the other and cleaning then using Stickafex (not sure of the spelling) stuck and glued and clamped the lot back together
2nd spent a very long time cleaning tank and cradle (cleanliness next to Godliness) then using a flame on a iron then soldered the lot.
when asked if he did another which way he would go was solder it
You have to clean up back to steel to defeat the rust what ever you do
cheers
Ian

Ian,

My concern was do I unsolder the half that's still joined so I can clean it up properly or try and clean as best I can (back to bare metal) the half that's 'unstuck' and just re-solder that.
I know in my own mind I should remove the cradle and do it properly, especially considering the overall state of the tank. It just delays the fixing of my original tank because I want to put a liner in both at the same time.....


Colin

Colin
do it properly the first time
something I have learnt if nothing else, over 60 odd years
after spending time taking the short cut, then spending more time fixing it correctly
pull it apart there will rust in there that has to removed
to repair leaks use PVC water pipe cement and primer
mix ratio 4:1
after doing your soldering, pour plenty in and coat sides as well
coats rust, seals holes etc, mate of mine did a Falcon in the middle 70's and still sound
I did my 109 rebuild tank over 2 years ago, touch wood still ok
cheers
Ian

Is it safe to use those old fashioned manual heat up soldering irons around petrol tanks ? I guess it is . The lump of pointy copper on a wooden handle . I used them at high school , we were taught that you check the temp. by holding the iron next to your cheek The nanny state would have a fit if kids did that today.

Originally Posted by series1buff

Is it safe to use those old fashioned manual heat up soldering irons around petrol tanks ? I guess it is .

After washing & drying tanks, I've flame soldered them by filling the tank with water leaving only the area/seam being soldered out of the water, a little bit at a time. It also has the benefit of making the temp easier to control .

The tank I have to fix hasn't seen petrol for about 10 years so it should be safe.

I picked up a big Birko soldering iron for $2 at a local trash & treasure a while ago, when I plug it in the lights in the workshop dim ! That should be powerful enough to do the job.
Also found it handy for soldering in new brushes on a couple of starter motors.


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

The tank I have to fix hasn't seen petrol for about 10 years so it should be safe.

I picked up a big Birko soldering iron for $2 at a local trash & treasure a while ago, when I plug it in the lights in the workshop dim ! That should be powerful enough to do the job.
Also found it handy for soldering in new brushes on a couple of starter motors.


Colin

I would fill it with exhaust gas while using any iron, even the birko. It makes you feel comfortable, in that you know it won't blow up under any circumstances . It is so easy to run a pipe into it from a idling engine . Mike

Hi Colin

In a earlier life
I was a PMG Tech
when soldering
large metal area's
use the biggest mother of a iron you can find, heat is very thing
every thing including the tank within 30 mm of the liquid solder must be the same temp
and use sulphuric acid to clean up the steel, then use Bakers with the solder
do not use flux solder, ok for copper etc
I have made water tanks, fuel tanks, plumb the lot
BUT make sure every thing is clean, clean it a couple of times, will save you a lot of grief
a little news, your Birko will be hard pressed to do the Job, not enough HEAT
cheers
Ian