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Thread: Another leafer in the stable

  1. #1
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    Another leafer in the stable

    Hi,
    I have just brought home a 1956 86in S1 to keep my 1967 109 tray back company. The wife has expressed some annoyance (read LOTS), and I may find myself sleeping in the shed with the Landies if not careful.
    I have a few questions -
    1. While steering wheel has a few fine cracks only, how can I best care for the old plastic?
    2. The front wheels have a stainless steel hub cap that sits behind the flange but covers the nuts. It is quite a shiney cap on each front wheel. Are these usual? I am guessing that I may have to remove the flange to get to the wheel nuts??? In the centre of the cap is another smaller cap that reads 'FREE WHEELING HUB - MAP'.
    Absolutely everything is where it's supposed to be except for the hood arm that holds it open. It looks as tho there never was one..... was this the case??
    Cheers,
    Phillip

  2. #2
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    photos so we can help and have a perv

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustlust View Post
    Hi,
    I have just brought home a 1956 86in S1 to keep my 1967 109 tray back company. The wife has expressed some annoyance (read LOTS), and I may find myself sleeping in the shed with the Landies if not careful.
    I have a few questions -
    1. While steering wheel has a few fine cracks only, how can I best care for the old plastic?
    2. The front wheels have a stainless steel hub cap that sits behind the flange but covers the nuts. It is quite a shiney cap on each front wheel. Are these usual? I am guessing that I may have to remove the flange to get to the wheel nuts??? In the centre of the cap is another smaller cap that reads 'FREE WHEELING HUB - MAP'.
    Absolutely everything is where it's supposed to be except for the hood arm that holds it open. It looks as tho there never was one..... was this the case??
    Cheers,
    Phillip
    1. Probably epoxy paint, but others will perhaps have a better idea.

    2. Free wheel hubs are quite common, but I have, over the years, come to the conclusion that they offer little if any advantage, and some disadvantages. Same free wheel hubs fit all Series Landrovers except for lwb Series 3 and late S3 88s.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustlust View Post
    Hi,
    I have just brought home a 1956 86in S1 to keep my 1967 109 tray back company. The wife has expressed some annoyance (read LOTS), and I may find myself sleeping in the shed with the Landies if not careful.
    I have a few questions -
    1. While steering wheel has a few fine cracks only, how can I best care for the old plastic?
    2. The front wheels have a stainless steel hub cap that sits behind the flange but covers the nuts. It is quite a shiney cap on each front wheel. Are these usual? I am guessing that I may have to remove the flange to get to the wheel nuts??? In the centre of the cap is another smaller cap that reads 'FREE WHEELING HUB - MAP'.
    Absolutely everything is where it's supposed to be except for the hood arm that holds it open. It looks as tho there never was one..... was this the case??
    Cheers,
    Phillip
    hi philip the map hubs are the rarefirst type they go with landrover regards jim re the steering wheel is a easy fix

  5. #5
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    Pics are of truck and hubs.
    Q's- How is the free wheeling hub engaged?...and how do I get the wheel off if the nuts are behind the cap? Nothing is mentioned in the books.
    - When I spin the drivers side wheel, when jacked up and out of gear, the wheel spins freely forwards, but locks up after a fraction of a rotation when spun backwards. Why would this happen????
    - I have a spare pair of doors, seats and a carbie... and maybe a radiator+support. Are these worth hanging on to? Will probably look to trade for other bits.
    Phillip
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    take the hub off and yes keep those they are always handy to hang on you never know when you might need them btw nice s1

  7. #7
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    MAP hubs

    The MAP hubs work with a screw on the side that engages/disengages the lock. I went for a drive in the paddocks this afternoon and when I came to park and unlock the hubs, I could get one hub unlocked and the other would only unlock half way.
    I had free wheeling hubs on my old S3, and no free wheelers on my SIIa. I think that i'll take the MAPS off altogether as i'm not a fan of free wheeling hubs. I suppose that Ii'll need to find two replacement 'star' flanges to convert the hubs back to factory spec. I wonder if I could use the ones currently fitted to the outside of the MAP??
    Cheers,
    P

  8. #8
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    Nope, will need new cover castings as end of MAP casting hub is too thin and specific to that particular hub. Better start looking around on the wreck I suppose.

  9. #9
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    How could the wife be annoyed at the 86, great looking runner.

    I had some experience with painting a steering wheel lately. Two pack paint will work better but the cost is also much higher, so working with single pack pressure pack cans seems to have worked well.

    I believe good success is in thin coats and allowing the recommended dry time or a bit more if possible. And a run of a few HOT sunny days. Find somewhere safe and secure to leave the wheel bake in the sun.

    I used White Night epoxy enamel gloss as the top coat, found at bunnings. As I was re-coating mine it had a bit of a build already, so the cracks weren't there. But there should be a high build undercoat or spay putty type product on the shelves near the top coat range. Clean the wheel with turps to remove any grease, sand with a scotch bright and all coats there after. Then bake in the sun. Remember thin coats, or if you go a thick coat, leave for at least double the recommended dry time.

    As I said it seems to have worked well, but I don't wear rings, and haven done anymore than a few laps around the block with he new wheel.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

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