Thread: Dumb iron massage

You could try a port-a-power and jack it back.

The best results will be obtained by splitting the welds along the seams, then re-align the dumb iron in all 4 directions and weld back up. Remember with any deformation of the chassis there will be stretching of the metal so the seams wont fully align in quite the same relationship as they did originally.

If the chassis has had a shunt like that, it would be worthwhile checking the alignment of the entire chassis. There is a diagramme in the workshop manual.

Particularly check for ripples in the LHS rail just in front of the first outrigger.

Good advice from Diana!

Try and determine from which direction the initial force which did the damage came from, and then you will need to pull or push in the opposite direction to stretch it back.

In addition you may need to anchor the car to the floor, or a post, to keep it still whilst the pulling/pushing is done. Heat will be OK, but you may need at least two oxy torches going and a couple of helpers. Remember that the metal is only 2mm thick so you don't want holes burnt! Measuring where the front spring hanger eye ends up, is critical for good steering and handling.

If there is any rust in the bent bit, it makes more sense to make a new part and weld it on,

Cheers Charlie

Cheers Charlie

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

You could try a port-a-power and jack it back.

The best results will be obtained by splitting the welds along the seams, then re-align the dumb iron in all 4 directions and weld back up. Remember with any deformation of the chassis there will be stretching of the metal so the seams wont fully align in quite the same relationship as they did originally.

If the chassis has had a shunt like that, it would be worthwhile checking the alignment of the entire chassis. There is a diagramme in the workshop manual.

Particularly check for ripples in the LHS rail just in front of the first outrigger.

How is a port-a-power used?
Must the chassis be secured down then pushed from below to straighten in?

Originally Posted by korg20000bc

How is a port-a-power used?
Must the chassis be secured down then pushed from below to straighten in?

You want to pull from the front / push horizontal, as the force would have been applied that way when it ran into something.

Proper chassis aligners run under the vehicle and anchor to the rear axle or chassis.

You will need >>20T force to fix that!

Cutting and rewelding, as Diana suggests will be much easier.

I had another long hard look at it this morning and I have decided (in concert with Diana's input) to cut the seams and work it that way. I have also decided to cut about a 4 inch section out that is bent inwards and replace, as it would impossible to bend it 'outwards' I think.
Thanks for all the input, will let you know how it turns out (pardon the pun).
Cheers

On mine when i got it they were so rust & colapst i cut them both off & welded new ones on , you could do that to..