Thread: Fuel pump rebuild

The SU pump is pretty easy to rebuild. The main bit that will be perished is the diaphragm rubber, this can be purchased as a replacement or you can obtain a bit of rubber from a fuel injection service and replace it yourself. The old pumps the washers that hold the diaphragm to the shaft are threaded and with a bit of care you can remove the lower one cut a new diaphragm and replace it.
Next reface the 2 Brass disks with 2000 wet and dry and a little valve past plus the seats.
Clean up or replace the points, the reassemble following the manual, this is very important if you want it to work.
Have rebuilt a number of units if you need a hand just pm me.
Dennis

Dennis
Is there any source of the sealed coil for the SU pump?
My pump is in top condition except for the wiring from this sealed unit and I would hate to have to switch over to a modern pump beneath the floorboards if I can avoid that route.
thks
drew

Originally Posted by Drew Parker

Dennis
Is there any source of the sealed coil for the SU pump?
My pump is in top condition except for the wiring from this sealed unit and I would hate to have to switch over to a modern pump beneath the floorboards if I can avoid that route.
thks
drew

hi drew kev baker classis parts sells new ones theres a guy in nsw who converts to electronic your old one it still looks the same i have lost his number perhaps somebody has it jim

I had a pump stop working somewhere on the track north of Cooktown ( 1973 ) and was going again in about five minutes, How?

Turned the ignition off, as sparks and petrol are better meeting inside the engine.
Undo the nut holding the power wire onto the pump and the locknut holding the cap that goes over the points, this exposes the bits to fix, while working on the pump watch for the brass pin that the points pivot on doesn't slid out.

Clean the points ( using a folded piece of wet and dry emery paper is good, or something like a nail file if your stuck ) as this is nearly always the reason that these pumps stop.

The adjustment of the stroke that causes the spring to go over centre that opens the points is the next step, this is something that needs doing carefully as not to damage the diaphragm.

Petrol will come out in the next part of operation and placing a large rag under the pump body can be used to catch the spill.

Unscrew the five screws that hold the body of the pump onto the base, there is a cork gasket between the pump base and a spacer plate, first making sure that the earth wire that goes between the land rover chassis and the body of the pump, is out of the way and is still in good condition ( important! ).

Then with a sharp pocket knife or similar, starting at the hardest side first, continue to carefully prise away the diaphragm from the pump base, things can tear if you try to pull the pump off without freeing the diaphragm from the base first.

All going well you should then have the pump body in your hand, then separate the other side of the diaphragm from the pump body, next loosen the screw holding the blade portion of the points support and move the contact aside and do the screw back up.

Using your thumb, press the centre of the washers supporting the diaphragm,
pushing the interconnecting rod which should then snap over the points support opening the points.

Looking at the base side of the diaphragm rotate the diaphragm clockwise until, when depressing it's centre the points stop throwing open, move the diaphragm back anti clockwise one hole at a time until the points start operating again, then rotate the diaphragm another two thirds of a turn anticlockwise ( four holes ), finish by aligning the closest screw holes up up with the ones in the diaphragm.

To reassemble, the diaphragm should be in a position that it's in tension when assembled, this is simply done by depressing the diaphragm opening the points and slipping a match or stick under the rocking support to hold the connecting rod in the operating position.

I don't use any sealant when reassembling, but do the screws up in a diagonal pattern lightly at first and then go around again until tight. ( something like Kopr-Kote on the screws is a good idea to stop the screws binding into the aluminium )

Remove the stick from under the points and reassemble the rest of the pump.

Five minutes to adjust and gone.

Thanks Wrinklesarthur a very detailed explanation and you remember all that from 1973 north of cooktown well done.
Mike

Originally Posted by Defender Mike

Thanks Wrinklesarthur a very detailed explanation and you remember all that from 1973 north of cooktown well done.
Mike

Long term memory is fine, but the short term memory well, maybe too many petrol fumes!
.

Burlen Fuel Systems in the UK can supply all the parts you may need. I recently bought a diaphragm kit and electronic controller conversion to do away with the points completely.

Burlen - Burlen Fuel Systems Ltd

Good prices, good service.

Thanks Andy

Do you want the 107 in Milicent? I'm driving over to pick mine up this weekend and Monday and Tuesday and hopefully not Wednesday!