Thread: Landrover panel beating/repair classes

I was chasing info. on restoring my S1 panels and a number of people suggested the Peter Tommasinni DVD's. I spoke at length to Peter Tommasinni and he mentioned he might be coming over this year to run a class at "The Hammerworks" in Rockingham. I phoned "The Hammerworks" and spoke to the owner, Clive Ross, who said he also ran classes on a Saturday for $250 per head.
I asked if he would be interested in running a class for Landrover enthusiasts on just aluminium (namely front fender) repair. He said no worries but we would need 10 people to run a class, is anyone interested?

* The Hammer Works - Home

Regards
Jonesy

Originally Posted by marc

did he suggest any of his dvd's for aluminium, i wouldn't mind a bit of info as my old girl needs some repair, have a local bloke who is good might give him a go at welding the split in the front gaurd.

Go back to series one enthusiasts forum and look at restoration information, a few people have made comment about welding aluminium. My understanding so far about welding Landy panels is;
1) if you are welding a split in the Ali, drill a small hole at the end of the split to stop it split further when the metal is heated up.
2) clean, clean and clean the area to be welded. Use a stainless steel wire brush to thoroughly clean the area to be welded.
3) use a small tip (maybe No.6 to 10) and a fine neutral flame to slight carburising flame (DO NOT USE AN OXIDISING FLAME).Trial, error and practice. The landrover series 3 manual suggests use a tip 1 or 2 sizes smaller than you would use for sheet steel of the same thickness.
4) as a filler material, I have read on numerous sites and forums that the best filler rod is old Birmabright. So if you have old Landy parts that are beyond repair, don't sell for scrap but cut them into strips to use as filler material. Hint: clean all the paint off the old panels before you cut into strips.
Landrover S3 manual says "use only 5% magnesium/aluminium welding rod (5Mg/A). Use Sifa-bronze special flux with this rod or use a 'Birmabright' off cut sheet. Do not use too wide or thick an off cut or trouble may be experienced in making it melt before the material which is being welded. A special acid flux must be used, and we recommend 'Hair-Kari'."
5) As Ali doesn't change colour when it gets close to melting temp you can sprinkle saw dust on the area to be welded, when the saw dust starts to sparkle then it is time add the filler rod. I have heard from others to use a heat sink on the back of the parent material to help control the heat.
6) wash the flux off immediately after the weld is completed.

This is all I have found out so far from research, but I have not tried it yet.
So best of luck.
Regards
Jonesy