And so the restoration begins...

**LoveB** · 22nd February 2013, 12:38 PM

So arthur has cylinders for 30 each, shoes for 45 per axle set, hose at 20 a piece. The master he can't fix so I'll have to take it to a brake repair place for a rebuild and new rubbers. Any suggestions? might check out that one in qbn when I'm back. But otehrwise is it wirth trying to find online? and would my lack of brakes most likely be solved by looking at those bits?

**mfc** · 23rd February 2013, 03:33 AM

I recon you have a missing spacer or bent brake or clutch leaver .... Looks like there binding up on each other . There should be a grease nipple on the shaft as well . Put a big screwdriver between the brake and clutch and get someone to press the peddles . Could be a pivot in need of crc etc

**LoveB** · 23rd February 2013, 08:04 AM

Thanks. Will check that out.

What do you reckon re brakes?

clr 4wd has the above listed.

roverparts has mostly the same but suggested I use the master from an S2. Transfer the rod from the S1 into the S2 and call it a day.

Or is it worth trying to get the master off first to see what I'm dealing with?

I think best route right now is to find out if its just a blockage at the end or what.

**mfc** · 23rd February 2013, 02:59 PM

I'd sort the break peddle clutch issue first, and drop the sump and scrub it out, wash out the gauze in the 2 breathers and air filter.... ( it's an oil bath filter )
Spray the bejesus out of the fuel line bolts m colinder etc, then I'd look at the linkages on ur hand break and if there all there try and get that working ( there's a bolt on the hand brake drum backing disk ( passenger side) that adjusts it , you can hear a click every 1/4 turn .. Tighten it till it stops then back off 2 clicks....... That's it .
Then you have clutch and hand break. Then start thinking about getting fuel to engine
If its brake lines it's going to be a bitch to change them with the body on, so leave em 4 now... The master can be resleaved . And any brake place will bend up pipes cheepishly.

**mfc** · 23rd February 2013, 03:08 PM

Type 86 inch into the search there's info on who resleaves masters in one rebuild thread . Smurfs is very good scallops to and ........... (I've forgotten but Chris is part of the nick)
Great inspiration and info
Cheers mark

**LoveB** · 23rd February 2013, 05:50 PM

thanks.. already adjusted brake but the lever is crook so gotta get a new metal bit that tugs onto the actual lock...

rover wise didnt do too bad today. missus and i ended up buying a my13 d110. lol picking it up next week

**mfc** · 24th February 2013, 04:02 PM

Cool
Mines a 2002
Perhaps u shoulda got a 130 single cab and put the 86" on the back .......p)

**LoveB** · 24th February 2013, 05:11 PM

That would have worked for me as well! lol. I'll start updating again next week when I work on it. weather has been poor. I'll be down in melb on the weekend of march 8 with the 110

**LoveB** · 25th February 2013, 07:19 PM

Thinking of changing the thermostat as well... will the 2.25 one work with the 2l?

**mfc** · 27th February 2013, 11:01 PM

if you want me to have a look at that 3 man hood {$99 buck s 1 shop job}and grab some better pictures let me know cause i gotta go over there{close by} its got a dint but i cant tell if its bad. i looked at it but decided on canvas as ive a full hard top in the garage.
Alex the guy has far more bits than advertised and may be able to help with the buggered metal brake bit{get the part number and email him} also has a 3 bolt master {new old stock but round the 200 mark but listed as 80 inch{so best look at parts book or post up here to check} , might be better geting it resleaved as per arthurs idea,likley cheeper to} also has thermostats and wheel cyl's listed
also JayBoRover's post is dealing with brake issues on a 1955 atm
cheers mark

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