Try Repco ....narva 7mm copper core ign lead....... They may try and sell you 30 meters,but if they get on there comp they can find it by the meter at other rc stores. I've used old rangie leads at a pinch..as well as rc coils
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Try Repco ....narva 7mm copper core ign lead....... They may try and sell you 30 meters,but if they get on there comp they can find it by the meter at other rc stores. I've used old rangie leads at a pinch..as well as rc coils
UPDATE TIME!!!!
to start the day off nicely, rick told me he had some small bits for the S1 which he picked up in melbourne whilst he was down..
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SCORE!
always good to put wrench time in with an inspiration nearby! this is Rick's S1... engine currently going a rebuild.
tried to suss out the fuel pump..
it looked like the original one but further investgation shows its a 'harting' which we found is a german brand... it's the same as the SU as the SU points worked on it!!...
however the trouble we're having iwth it is when the bottom is off, it will click and pump fine. When the bottom is on, it wont pump at all. We've tried adjusting it. but no go at all. It clicks a bit but not enough to pump at all... Can anyone guide me on how to adjust it? or should I just rebuild/buy another? its like 80 pounds for a new one though.
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But luckily for me there was another fuel pump in the engine bay (not original) which we managed to get to work... Changed some fuel lines as it was spilling and added some gaskets so the fuel no longer spills...
But you obviously know what it means when the fuel pump works right??
Land Rover Series 1 first time running on its own power - YouTube
BOOOYAAHHHHHHHHHHHh
its officially alive and running on its own power. The fuel pump works. (well atleast the temporary one in there) the ignition is fine, the generator charges up as it should...
HECK THE HORN AND HEADLIGHTS WORK AFTER BEING PARKED FOR 28 YEARS!!!! lol blows a bit of smoke and I need to investigate the chugging in the engine ( I was told worst case could be a bent valve but changing it out isn't too hard I've been told) But I'm not complaining...
I also got around to changing the rod for the hand brake which now works. That means I can drive the car up to his shed and start working on the brakes. :) I'm just on the hunt or brake parts now and I'm about to start ordering bits here and there.... But otherwise... today I'm a VERY HAPPY BOY.
I think for the price I got this its turning out REALLY GOOD. I have no plans of touching the body. I just want it drivable and road registered. Keep it as original as I can.
BTW transmission is fine. So is the clutch. I was able to move it around forward and back without any drama. :)
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Before I bid him farewell until his new parts arrive.
i took the brake master off to get it rebuilt too.
re youre su "like" fuel pump heres a few pdf's that may assist in geting it up and going.. SU Fuel Pump Articles
Fuel Sender Repair
might be serviceable yet
cheers mark
I repaired mu SU just for the novelty. It is too worn to be robust so I took the valves out and use a modern exec pump in line by the tank.
Good luck with it. They have a name for un reliability but it's the inactivity between uses, and reincarnations that kill them. In reality you wouldn't expect any component with moving parts and a diaphragm to work for 60 years.
right, time to get this old boy on the road soon. been on hiatus again for sometime. I just stareted work for JLR and was advised by our parts dept that we can still get parts for it so depending on the price the parts come to I might tow it into work on saturday and get it going!
possibly... it was afterall a better offer than my last job. and so far it seem sto be all good. i had mine serviced today and they did more than they had to :p
and my saving grace is i get to see/drive the new models too. lol but yes, even they said it's probably hard to get even half the club to come in for a service! lol
towed the old boy into work. should start to get fun :)
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Well done. I have had my 80" for many more years and made much less progress.
I'm having some issues with my fuel pump again...
When I've got the pump out on its own and connect it straight to the battery it seems to click correctly and work as it should but when i have it hooked up to the wiring it seems to only click very slowly if it clicks at all. Last october when I had it running it was on the same pump and same wiring. When I got back to it now it only clicked very little but almost not enough to get the fuel sucked up.
What sohuld I be looking at? I tried an afetrmarket pump that I got from another s1 restorer (he said it was working) for 20$ but it appears to be cactus as well. Plugged straight to the battery and no bueno.
so im not sure if I should just plug the wiring directly to the battery for now to atleast get it to pump petrol? or is that a bad idea? i only need it to run enough so I can move it around the workshop then I'll worry about getting the right pump etc. just stumped as to why