best get on to them and ask ...i figure 1953 would be 80 inchQuote:
Originally Posted by LoveB
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best get on to them and ask ...i figure 1953 would be 80 inchQuote:
Originally Posted by LoveB
There were many changes to the brakes between the 80" and the 1954 86".
So the short answer is no.
Try Jim at
Four Wheel Drives
13 Terracotta Drive
Blackburn VIC 3130
Phone: 03 9890 0509.
or
Gary at 'CLR 4WD Parts'
99 Princes highway St. Peters
NSW 2044.
Phone: 02 9550 2689.
Tell them Arthur sent you.
.
Thanks mate. I'll give them a ring tmrw.
Might drive to clr 4wd parts on saturday if they're open
EDIT: I'll ask again to be sure, before I put petrol in should I chuck lead substitute? engine hasnt been run in 27 years so im guessing it hasnt got the hardened valve seals yet??
dont think that lead substitute is worth it just to get it to fire up..
{long term i dont know}.But order a sump gasket as there will be some oil porn living in the sump, best of to scrape it all out before running it.
i ran my 80'on normal fuel if it is just for a little while it doesnt matter
I wouldn't bother at the moment as you are unlikely to use anything like a tank full of petrol, but when the engine is running and the Land Rover is on the road, yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by LoveB
Your biggest worry will be if the tank leaks between the joint in the bottom plates, it's a well known problem with Land Rovers with a few years on them.
What condition is the old oil in, have you looked at it before you try and start the engine?
With 'HECter' I was lucky as the oil was as clear as new oil and I didn't hesitate to try and get its engine running.
Years ago, I got running a old diesel David Brown tractor that had been abandoned for about ten years in a old silage pit.
On checking it before it was started, I could see there wasn't any oil showing at all on the dip stick, so when I pulled the sump I found the residue had set rock hard.
Besides chipping out the rubbish in the sump, I had to remove and clean out the oil ways, pump and the pickup as the pump had seized with the solid dry crud.
Had I tried to turn that motor, the gears that drive the oil pump would have sha-ttered as the pump was not going to work at all.
.
When I pulled the dip stick out it was still oil. on the lower level but still as smooth as oil should be.Obviously looked like it could use an oil change but didnt have any hints of sludge or residue. But I'll probably drop the sump atleast to be sure.
and yeah, when its running I'll chuck in lead substitute. But just to get it going in the garage I will probably just chuck regular unleaded in. When I tried to turn the engine it sounded healthy and had no head leaks and such. But yes, I'll chuck a pic of the dipstick up with the oil soon and I'll get to ordering a sump gasket to be sure. First I'll need to clean the gunk out of the underchassis to get to the screws! lol
ps this is what I'm dealing with the clutch/ brake pedal. any thoughts?
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MXW1DvWZTc]Land rover series 1 brake and clutch pedal - YouTube[/ame]
Lead substitute is a waste of money - Land Rovers were made with hardened seats for lousy fuel when they were new,
Cheers Charlie
Ha good to know. Will just keep it running on regular fuel then